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MWX445RBW0 Tappan Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the MWX445RBW0
1 - 15 of 76

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replace broken drive belt
284 of 319 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rodney from fairfield bay, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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Washer wouldn't spin.
55 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garland from Morganton, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new sp ring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.
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Agitator Drive Block wore out
69 of 115 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Somerville, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!
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washer leaking
41 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Woodridge, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed front body panel (2 screws at bottom and pulled down panel), then used pliers to squeeze pinch clamps and pull back the two hoses off the pump. then removed the two pump clips that secure the pump in place and used screw driver to gently pry the old pump off the motor shaft, under that was the rubber pump slinger which was pulled off the motor shaft. The next step was to sand the rust off the motor shaft and apply some vasoline to lubricate the shaft and install the new pump slinger and pump on the motor shaft,put the pump clips back on and push the hoses on the new pump and slide the pinch clamps back into place, run test to check for leaks then re-install the front body panel.
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Washer not spinning, water leaking out bottom
30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Springfield, VT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.
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the belt was all worn out , it make a lot of noise
26 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CARLOS from BEALETON, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
i took out the two back screws lift the top.
took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.
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No Final Spin Burning Smell
17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NELSON from MAYWOOD, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed 2 screws at bottom of the front panel - removed front panel by sliding the panel down about 1/2 inch and then away from the appliance- v belt is removed by pushing the tensioner pulley to remove tension from the belt and turning the pulley untill the belt is removed instalation is a simple reverse of the process. I did't have a repair manual so every step was trial and error untill I was able to complete the repair.
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Burning smell, lots of hi-pitched squeaking
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Heather from Stephenville, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.
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Small water leak around front of machine and clothes would not spin dry.
15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chanc from Gibson City, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel on and slid the panel down to remove it, after first lifting the top panel and supporting it in the upright position out of the way. popped the two clips that hold the pump on, and used the pliers to remove the hose clamps on the pump. the pump was rusted to the motor shaft, so I had to use some force to pry it off of the motor. then i had to use some sandpaper to clean the rust off of the motor shaft. slid the new pump on and secured the hoses and hold down clips. then pushed the belt tensioner in and replaced the belt. the machine is like new again.
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Tub was leeking
15 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gregory from Fort Worth, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....
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washer belt broke
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from Boxford, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
followed the instructions on a blog
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Wash tub would not drain/burning rubber smell
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clay from Kansas City, MO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the top of the washer by removing two screws on the back. I located and bypassed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem. The problem still existed so I removed the two screws that hold the front panel of the washer. Using a flashlight, I located the drive belt and immediately saw that it was out of position and h ad pieces missing. I cut and removed the old belt, placed the new belt on the tub pulley and slowly maneuvered it onto the motor drive wheel. I then squeezed the tensioner pulley so that the belt was seated. I turned the timer dial which started the washer and it immediately began pumping the water out of the tub. Problem solved!
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Leaking Pump
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mike from Put-in-Bay, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers
Remove front cover of stackable washer dryer to expose pump. Remove belt from drum and motor. Remove water lines from pump. Remove motor and pump which is on top of motor. Pump was rusted to shaft of motor which was removed by pry bars. Cleaned shaft with emery cloth and applied never siezed to shaft. Replaced motor. Replaced pump on shaf t of motor. Replaced wiring. Replaced hoses. Replaced belt. Replaced hold down clips. Back in service.
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washer went into spin mode but would not spin
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Damon from Hinesville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, t he machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.
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Washer wouldn't spin
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Huntersville, NC
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a screwdriver to remove the front of the washing machine, fit the belt around the main pulley, held in the spring loaded tension pulley, and threaded the belt aound. It works great! I really need this inexpensive repair, since my job was downsized, and I can't afford to pay anyone.
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All Instructions for the MWX445RBW0
1 - 15 of 76