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MWX445RBW0 Tappan Washer - Overview

Diagrams for MWX445RBW0

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Drive V-Belt – Part Number: 134511600
$24.41
In Stock
Drive V-Belt
★★★★★
★★★★★
(31)
Part #134511600
This rubber V-style drive belt slips on the motor pulley to bring the basket to the required speed. If you notice a burning rubber smell or grinding noises coming from your washer, your washer does not start, drain, spin properly (will not spin/spins slowly/will not agitate properly), or if your washer shakes or moves during the cycle; check your drive belt for signs of wear and tear. Replace the drive belt if you notice that the belt looks damaged. This OEM part is approximately 35 inches in length, and sold individually.
Tub Seal Assembly – Part Number: 5303279394
No Longer Available
Tub Seal Assembly
★★★★★
★★★★★
(5)
Part #5303279394
If you have a leaky washer, then your tub seal may be the culprit. The tub seal assembly may also be known as the washer tub seal, and is a part for your washer. The function of this piece is to make sure water does not lead from between the outer tub and the spin basket from around your basket drive shaft within your washer. To replace your old part with this one you will need a flathead screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver, pliers, putty knife, 7/16 socket, spanner wrench, and a hammer.
Tension Idler Pulley – Part Number: 131862900
No Longer Available
Tension Idler Pulley
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★★★★★
(5)
Part #131862900
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operating, you might need to replace the tension idler pulley. The tension idler pulley works in conjunction with the drive belt, so you might need to replace the belt as well as the pulley. Once the old pulley has been removed from the washer, you will need to transfer the spring and bushing from the old pulley to the new one before re-attaching it to the washer.
SCREW – Part Number: 131168200
$26.35
In Stock
SCREW
Part #131168200
Sold individually.
Agitator Drive Block – Part Number: 134418700
No Longer Available
Agitator Drive Block
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★★★★★
(2)
Part #134418700
The agitator drive block rotates the agitator assembly in your washer. If the drive block breaks down due to wear and tear the agitator will stop working. If you notice that your washer is making loud noises while washing, this may indicate an issue with the agitator block. You will find this part underneath the dispenser cover and cup. You will need a 1/2-inch socket to remove the agitator bolt and then simply lift off the agitator (this may require some effort to lift off). Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the old drive block, push the new one into place with firmness. This part is made of metal and measures about 2 inches long and 1 inch wide.
Spin Bearing – Part Number: 3204405
$85.75
In Stock
Spin Bearing
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
Part #3204405
The spin bearing, used for your washer, is located at the bottom of the outer tub near the transmission. The spin bearing carries the transmission shaft in the drive system, therefore ensuring the shaft is spun properly during its spin cycle. If your spin cycle makes loud or odd noises, replacing the bearing could be a solution to your problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions. As a safety precaution make sure to unplug appliance from the power source.
Upper Spin Bearing Washer – Part Number: 5308002401
$25.14
In Stock
Upper Spin Bearing Washer
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
Part #5308002401
The upper spin bearing for a washer can solve many issues such as loud and odd noises, or leaking water. Replacing the spin bearing could solve these issues. The tools needed for this replacement are screwdrivers, a socket set, and a putty knife. To repair, first lift the top of the washer and remove the screws at the bottom of the front panel to pull away. Next, pull off the dispenser cover, cup, and agitator. Detach switch tube from the tub cover and remove tub cover, then use the 1/2 inch socket to remove the trunnion bolts and pull out inner tub. For the rest of the installation instructions, refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer. Remember to unplug the appliance from the power source as a safety precaution.
Tension Spring – Part Number: 3204425
No Longer Available
Tension Spring
Part #3204425
This tension spring works in conjunction with the idler pulley. The spring is part of your top load washing machine assembly. The most likely reasons for needing to replace the tension spring is if you notice that your washer is not spinning or agitating, the drive belt has come loose, and the idler pulley is no longer secure. To access this part, you will need to remove the front of your washer. The spring is located underneath the bottom of the tub. This is a genuine OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer.
Direct Drive Pump – Part Number: 131208500
No Longer Available
Direct Drive Pump
Part #131208500
This pump sucks the water out of your washers tub with one of its valves, and drains the water into a drain hose with the other valve.
Washer Bolt – Part Number: 137539500
$31.13
In Stock
Washer Bolt
Part #137539500
Holds plated on Trunion .312-18 x 1.625.
SPACER – Part Number: 5308015493
No Longer Available
SPACER
Part #5308015493
This spacer is used in washers or a washer and dryer combo unit. Spacers are used to create space between cotter pins, lock nuts, hitch pins or to fill the space between machinery parts in a washer. This part goes between the timer knob and the dial in a washer to function effectively and provide protection. The length of this part is 6.35 inches with a width of 5.25. The spacer has a height of 8.125 inches and the weight of 0.3 pounds. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and guidance. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source.
Water Inlet Hose Assembly – Part Number: 134211701
No Longer Available
Water Inlet Hose Assembly
Part #134211701
This water inlet hose is used in washers. The hose connects the washer water inlet valve to the water supply in your home. There are two solenoids on the valve, which are referred to as coils, and there are two wires attached to each solenoid that should be labelled to ensure they are properly reconnected after replacing the new hose. Over time, your hose can begin to leak which can lead to floods. Replacing your hose earlier on can prevent this problem. Refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer for installation instructions. Remember to unplug your appliance from the power source before beginning this installation project.

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replace broken drive belt
284 of 319 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rodney from fairfield bay, AR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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Washer wouldn't spin.
55 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • garland from Morganton, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new sp ring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.
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Agitator Drive Block wore out
69 of 115 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Somerville, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!
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