MWS939AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions
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Broken Belt
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Honesdale, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!
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Washer tub stopped spinning and was real noisy
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from Brewster, MA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping w
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as twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!
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The water did not drain at all . You could hear the pump spinning , but it was not .
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from STATEN ISLAND, NY
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
After making sure there was no blockages and the pump was not jammed I knew it was time for a new one . Unplug the machine and turn off the hot and cold water . Remove the two screws on the bottom of the front of the machine and push down on the panel it should come right off . Make sure all the water is drained out of the tub use a wet/d
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ry vacuum to suck out all the water if needed . Then with the vacuum empty squeeze the clamps that hold the hoses on the pump and push them out of the way . Use the vacuum to suck up any leftover water, as you remove both hoses . Unplug the one set of wires going to the pump . Remove both screws and the pump should now be loose . Do the same thing in reverse to install the new pump . Other than dealing with the water it should take under 15 minutes . Good Luck
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Pump motor made humming noise and wouldn't drain water from tub.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from Oakford, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse
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replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.
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Washer did not drain, would not cycle; pump was 'humming' and not moving water
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DANIEL from PINCKNEY, MI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove front lower access panel: two phillips screws at the lower edge then the panel slid down and off. Removed 5/16 pump mounting screws then slid a shallow pan under pump to attempt to catch stale water, removed left side (inlet) hose clamp and wiggled hose off to drain water with some success, some spillage. Removed outlet hose, turne
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d the pump around to remove electrical connection. Reversed steps to mount new pump and after fighting with spring clamp on outlet side I chose to replace that spring clamp with a 1 1/2" stainless hose clamp which then could be tightened with a screwdriver and only took a minute to wrap up.
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Noisy operation - "Chugged" during operation.
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from Lynnwood, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain h
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ose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.
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Leaking through the main tub seal
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rob from DACULA, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Screw drivers, Socket set
-Remove front panel - 2 screws
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
- ... Read more Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)
-Remove the top panel - 2 screws
-Disconnect the lid switch from the top panel - 2 screws
-Remove the agitator cap - unscrew
-Remove the agitator - This was a bit difficult and required a lot of jiggling but it eventually came off
-Remove the inner drum - 5 bolts at the bottom
- ... Read more Remove the drum mount - 2 bolts and then it got really difficult. A lot of penetrating blaster, wire brushing, jiggling, and some strategically placed hammer taps (don't damage the threads.
-Remove the seal
-Clean up the inner and outer seal seating surfaces
-Rinse and repeat in reverse (pun intended)
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over filling
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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eliot from fairbanks, AK
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!
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Leveling Leg Broken
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Rochester, NH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installa
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tion for DIY. The new legs work great.
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Smell of rubber under dryer. Inspection proved belt cracked and shinny worn spot.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fred from WOLVERINE, MI
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Installation was easy, however watch repair instructions video for your model number to easily remove front access panel.
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Washer tub was not spinning
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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josef from Nashville, TN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Smelled burning rubber, checked belt. Belt was cracked and worn out. Easy repair. Removed front of the machine held together with two screws at the bottom of the unit. Removed top cover of machine (the part with the lid). It just pops off. Pushed tensioner wheel in and took off old belt. Putting new belt on was super easy. Working
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like a champ now. $20 total with shipping. Not too bad to save a washing machine.
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Broken belt
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sharon from TEMPLE, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)
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Leveling leg sheared off
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph W from WEST PALM BCH, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.
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Impellar was broken on the washer drain pump.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from IOWA PARK, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed front panel and unplugged wire connector to drain pump. Loosened two hose clamps and removed hoses the unbolted drain pump from washer frame. Simple removal and even simplier installation of new drain pump.
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Drive Belt Was Noisy-Slipping
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Carrollton, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out bel
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t by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.
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