MW55 - Instructions
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Stopped pumping water
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Martha from Frazeysburg, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Husband did it. Tipped machine onto its front. Took out some screws and disconnected a wire and removed hoses from pump. Then put it all back and it is as good as new. This is the second pump in two years, but it beats the price of a new machine.
Your service is excellent. Both times, I have ordered the part is here the next m ... Read more orning. Never have had such service from anywhere else. I am telling all my friends about your web site.
Your service is excellent. Both times, I have ordered the part is here the next m ... Read more orning. Never have had such service from anywhere else. I am telling all my friends about your web site.
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Turntable Quit
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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RICHARD from OKLAHOMA CITY, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Snipped four corners off inspection panel,removed one phillips screw and two elect. Connections. Reverse process.
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knob was getting hard to turn so I ordered a new knob.
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bertram from Woods Hole, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers
had to pull knob out to see the clip locking the knob to the post.
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip
finally got the clip out, pulled knob off sand put on new knob with new clip
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Leaking Water Pump
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roy from Bellevue, NE
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Repair was relativly simple. I read previous customer direction submissions. I found that laying the front of the washing macine down removing the back panel gave easy access to the water pump. Remove all 4 hoses first then with a 11/32nd socket remove the top 3 screws that are holding up the pump. At the bottom of the pump unscrew the cl
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amp until the pump will slide out of the rubber stabelizer.(Leave stabelizer attached to the motor) Remove the pump and in reverse order replace with new pump leaving the back cover off of the machine. Set the washing machine upright and check for leeks. After checking for leeks attach the back panel onto the washing machine.
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no hot water supply to washer, selenoid pumping on and off
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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BLAIR from PARAMUS, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
remove enough screws in rear panel to access water inlet valve. remove two screws holding water inlet valve to washer frame and flex valve outward enough to remove clamp on water inlet tube. wiggle inlet tube off of valve inlet nipple and back valve out enough to see wires. after noting wiring color codes remove the four wires from the ol
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d valve and discard old valve. install the new valve simply by reversing entire process. only difficult part of entire process is removing and reinstalling the inlet tube on the valve body as the tube is short and limits room to work.
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Started leaking from boot edge
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Colwich, KS
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Popped the top by pushing in front clips with screwdrivers. Removed spin shield. Removed agitator and hub cover (all by hand). Used 12pt. socket to remove three bolts holding the tub. Pulled up tub (difficult b/c of weight and slippery residue). Loosened clamps w/ nutdriver and removed boot. Scrubbed clamps clean and reinstalled eve
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rything.
Forgot to get clamps really snug, so it dripped a little. Did everything second time, but before replacing tub, did a leak check by running a load. Worked great. Good luck.
Forgot to get clamps really snug, so it dripped a little. Did everything second time, but before replacing tub, did a leak check by running a load. Worked great. Good luck.
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Full of water and smell like something was burning
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Albany, IN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
This was my daughter's washing machine. I looked at the back of the machine to see if there was an opening to get to the parts. Since the back is all closed up. I knew the front had to come off. I pride up, and I pride out, and finally the front popped off. After taking the front cover off the washer. I could see the belt was all chewed u
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p. We ordered a new belt from partselect and got it a day early. I tried to pry the belt on without loosening up anything. I couldn't get it. So I loosened the four bolts on the motor mount and slid the motor backwards towards the other pulley. I put the belt on both pulleys and pried the motor forward to tightened the belt up. Then tightened all four bolts. Put the front guard back on and tried the washer to see if we had any other problems.
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Washer did not spin well
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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walter from Blairstown, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the back of the machine and then flipped the machine on the side and loosened the motor to get the old belt off. A piece came out so we had to check the schematics online to figure out where it went. We believe it was the out-of-balance cut off switch. So to fix that we unplugged the motor assembly and took it out. I also had to
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fish the spring out of the vacuum, no small task. The worst part was that the belt was so deteriorated that it was super greasy and the carpet ended up a mess. We replaced the motor and belt and now it actually gets the water out of the clothes. Simply Green cleaner was used for the rug and after some strong elbow grease it was cleaned. If not for the mess and the other part and the vacuum snafu, I would have labeled this as easy.
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Part was leaking
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Warren from Columbus, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set, Wrench set
Laid washer face down, unscrewed the 3 screws holding part to brackets. Removed the hose connections to the pump part. loosened the clamp around the base of the pump and pulled the part out. inserted new pump, tightened the clamp, reconnected the hoses, and bolted the part to the brackets. First time through, one of the hoses was not
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tight enough, so we put a new clamp on it and it worked fine.
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Part broke
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from MYRTLE BEACH, SC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Got the part and replaced it. Simple. Pleasure to work with
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Washer would pump but not spin.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from ST PETERSBURG, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set, Wrench set
Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.
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agitator worn out
6 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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JD from Smyrna, TN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Took agitator out of machine knocked old coupling out and inserted new one into agitator/washing machine. Part arrived promptl and correctly. Thank you. JD
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The microwave would not turn on or would run with the door open
6 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from TROY, OH
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Other tools that are usefull long needle nose pliers, long thin blade screw driver and small magnetic flashlight. Place the microwave on a work bench and remove the case it cover 3 sides. Place the microwave on a chair so it can stand with the controls up. You are replacing the lower door microswitch. The switch is located behind the
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control panel in the lower part of the area. The switch is several inches inside this area and your hands will not fit. Take care when moving wires and a couple of sensors. Use the thin blade screwdriver to release a tab holding the switch in place. Do not break this tab. Take the needle nose pliers and remove the switch. Put the wires on the new switch, open the door a short distance so a door lever moves enough to put the microswitch back into the bracket.
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Microwave oven ran but stopped heating
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Forrest from Eugene, OR
- Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
... Read more />After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
... Read more />After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
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microwave not heating
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from GREENSBURG, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
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