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MER7775WS0 Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MER7775WS0
46 - 60 of 185

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Broiler element not working
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Normand from Lincoln, RI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
It went great. I am not very handy, but with a little help from your website reviews, I was able to easily remove the old broiler element and replace it with the new one in less than an hour. I immediately tested it and found that it worked great.
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Element quit working
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daryl from Oak Creek, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once rem oved, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
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bottom piece of range rusty
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruno from LE ROY, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
took old one off and installed new one used electrical tape to hold glass from sliding.Unscrewed moulding and installed new one
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Oven Temp inaccurate
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from BURNSVILLE, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I watched the repair video on this site and another on YouTube before I started. The rear panel has a different shape and two additional screws on the bottom edge. The power clip was easy to manipulate.
This was an easy fix for a seventy year-old like me!
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back R burner of ceramic top stove went out - died
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • gayleana from spokane, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!
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Oven door would not close completely
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ross A from Sugar City, ID
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Open door 1/4 an slide the little latches on each hinge toward you. This will lock them in place. Close the door a little and lift it up. The door will slide out. Lay it face down on a table and undo all the screws. Do not remove the glass, frame etc. Slide old hinge out and new one in being careful not to slide the glass and frame out of alignment. It is a pain to get it all back together if you take every part out. Just do the hinges. Screw it back together. Reverse the door removal process by lowering the hinges into the oven receiver from a 75% closed position. Once in place, open the oven about halfway and slide the locks forward. This will allow the door to close completely. Note: Three hinges came with my set. Not sure what the third odd one is for.
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Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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Oven stopped heating, error message stated heating element
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lana from WATERVILLE, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy. Pulled the stove away from the wall. Used a screw driver to remove the two nuts to release the heat sensor, disconnected the wire, removed the sensor. Inserted the new sensor, plugged back into the circuit. put the two nuts back.
Beware, if the first time you put the oven on, if the error message comes back up (mine did ) push the cancel/off button, wait a few minutes, put oven back on. System probably needed to reset. Mine worked perfectly after.
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The oven light shorted out causing the safety thermostat to blow.
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph K from PAHRUMP, NV
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light
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Right Side Rear Burner Not Working
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • WILLIAM from TAMPA, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identica l to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.
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Burned out stove top element
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • rick from colorado springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact mat ch. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!
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The Range took forever to achieve the proper heating temperature with an inability to maintain a steady heat
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Mifflinburg, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I removed the bottom drawer,unplugged the Range and pulled it out to expose the rear cover panel. Using a nut driver (a screw driver can be used), I removed the rear panel to expose the Thermal fuse located almost dead center in the back of the Range. Unplug the two wires and loosen the screw holding it in position. Replace the thermal fuse, plug the two wires into the new part and replace the rear cover panel. Return the Range to its original position and plug it in. The job is done in less than 30 minutes.
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oven not keeping correct temp and sometimes would not relight when temp went dropped.t
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from PLUM CITY, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Slid oven out and took back shield off unplugged sensor took bracket screw out replaced sensor with new one.
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You
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ron from CARIBOU, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Pleaae prepopulate the manufacturer and part i purchased. I fix a lot of appliances so cannot expend the effort to decipher this.

Be well.
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Paint peeling from strip
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Myron from Punta Gorda, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
removed 3 screws holding the strip and replaced with new strip
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All Instructions for the MER7775WS0
46 - 60 of 185