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MER7775WS0 Maytag Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the MER7775WS0
16 - 30 of 185

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Hidden bake element, oven doesn't maintain hear
24 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • EVERETT from BARTOW, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
To access the hidden bake element you have to remove the warmer drawer and the left side panel (your left from the back of the oven). To remove the side panel you need to access 3 screws under the side of the glass top, to lift the glass top open the oven door and remove 2 screws from the bottom side of the glass top. Once the drawer and side panel are removed you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the false bottom on the front side of the oven and remove 2 more screws on the side so it drops down. Move the insulation out of the way and relase the element tray by prying out 2 tabs on the front side. Unplug the connectors from the element terminals and remove the bolt holding the element. Fold the side of the element tray down to remove the element. Reverse order to install.
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
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right rear burner was inop for last 4 years
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Steinhatchee, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee
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Broil element burned out
19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • carlton from lakeland, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .
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Glass top electric range element not working
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Stockton, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
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Oven doesn't heat evenly
23 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Helen from Brush, CO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
Moved the stove out from the wall. Took out the screws from the back and then from the top. I pulled the piece through the back to unplug the clips from the elements. But the wires went back through the openings. So I had to take the back off of the stove to get to the wires to put back through the holes in the stove. Once the clips were back together, I put the back back on the stove. Rebolted the part to the stove and moved it back.
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Oven light not working
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
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Scratches in Surface
83 of 227 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
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Bottom door trim was rusted
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Terre Haute, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.
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Baked on sauce
12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Julie from Newnan, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.
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Oven light would not work--faulty socket
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Delores from Warren, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
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Broiler element failed
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • steven from SEDRO WOOLLEY, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element
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Back heating element stopped working
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Peachtree City, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
... Read more >Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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Element Burned out
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Buford from Sun City Center, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.
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All Instructions for the MER7775WS0
16 - 30 of 185