KUDM2 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I heated the ends of the tube in hot water and slipped it on the round end first. I was then able to slip the other end on. The secret to doing this repair is working fast while the rubber is still pliable.

The dishrack fits perfectly in our 10 yr old KitchenAid dishwasher. Took a little while installing the wheels and 3 rows of tines that were not in place as instruction sheet was a bit vague. Our old rack had had several tines rust off, and recently learned that we should be using liquid detergent as the powder is like a sandblasting age ... Read more nt over time. Also we didn't get a knife/fork basket with the rack; however, old one fit okay.

The lower door seal had fallen out as it was worn out so I wasn't sure of the proper orientation of the new seal or even where it went as the instructions had nothing about the seal. A little bit of logical thinking and the seal just just snapped in place. The door drains that came with the kit were both a right or left hand and so I didn ... Read more 't install them. Turns out that I didn't need the new ones anyway. The old door seal just pulled out and the new one just pushed into place. I was careful to center the top of the strip so that it would come out even at both sides of the bottom. There were no instructions for the door seal but none were needed. As long as I was working on the washer I did some cleaning to make it look new and bright...that took the most time. Easy repair and a happy wife besides.

One day the door came slaming down. Pulled off the bottom two panels and noticed a broken spring. For the small investment I purchased two new springs and replaced both while I was down there.

1) Pulled off the bottom two panels
2) Took note of location of where the springs were and removed the old springs.
3) With my ... Read more fingers found the holes and placed new spring on the door side.
4) With some muscle stretched the spring untill it joined the multiple tension slots on the frame of the washer.
5) Found the correct tension to suppt the door opening and closing properly.
6) Replaced the two bottom panels
7) Cleaned up and was done!

Thank you partselect for your great web help!

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until ... Read more I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

Took off the front cover and scraped out soap deposits - probably consequent to wash water not being hot enough. Replaced the lower seal - used some automotive weatherstrip seal to cement it in place. Loosened the door per instruction sheet and replaced the water deflectors on each lower corner. Probably took me longer since I'm 81 years ... Read more old and don't get up and down as well as I once did. Insulated the hot water tube so wash water is hotter than before. Works pretty good.

Remove power, either unplug the unit or locate and turn off the circuit breaker. There is power under the dishwasher even if it is not running.

Use the nut driver to remove both lower panels to gain access to the bottom of the dishwasher.

I suspected the overflow switch and used the ohm meter to discover the resista ... Read more nce of the switch, with no water in the washer, measured anywhere from a couple of ohms to 40 ohms or more and of course it should be less than one ohm.

There was no sign of any leakage or other problem so I wanted to keep the job simple and replace only the actual micro switch.

Problem! The micro switch is mounted on the back side of the float stem kit and visibility is severely limited. About all you can see are the switch terminals and the head of the phillips screw that holds the microswitch on the rest of the float stem kit.. You'll definitely need a small mirror.

I first pulled the wires from the microswitch terminals. Then I used a small phillips screw driver to remove the screw holding the switch and the first thing that happened is the small white float lever fell out. (I didn't know that it was even there because of the poor visibility. Ugly surprise!)

I spent 1/2 hour or more studying how the lever went in and found that the cirular end of the lever fits into a circular depression in the assembly body and was HELD IN BY THE SWITCH. (Now it's really getting ugly!)

The problem then is how to get the lever back in place and have it stay there while placing the micro switch back in place. There just isn't any easy way to do that. If only the switch and lever were one piece it would have been so simple.

Aha!

I placed and aligned both the lever and the microswitch on the float assembly body that I received. Using a couple of small pieces of electricians tape I taped the microswitch and lever together so they were one piece. Then I carefully (very carefully) removed the switch/lever
"assembly" that I made and eased it into position onto back side of the dishwasher float stem assembly body. When the switch is almost in place there is just barely room to get the tip of your finger in there and seat the rounded end of the lever into the depression. After seating the lever, carefully replace and tighten the phillips screw holding the switch in place. Then remove the electricians tape.

Replace the wires on the micro switch terminals, replace the front panels, put your tools away, and by golly, you're done.

This repair is not for the faint-hearted nor for those with fat fingers or who tend to be klutsy. It took me three or four attemps and a couple of hours to get the microswitch and float lever into place. But I think it was worth it as I didn't have to remove the dishwasher, play with water lines, or remove the full float assembly thus avoiding creating other problems that might likely result in water leaks and additional repairs..

If you decide to try this repair, good luck. It can be done but it is tough.

replaced the fuse in the door

all I had to do was snap the plastic piece in.
thanks, great experience.

1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.

2) Put a sheet ... Read more or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.

3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.

4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.

Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.

5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.

Took 6 screws off to disassemble the control panel, removed the electonics, removed and ordered handle, and replaced it.

Smooth.

I turned off the CB for the DW and the water supply to the DW.
I disconnected the electrical connections on the water inlet valve. I then removed the panels from the lower part of the dishwasher, I pulled the water inlet line off and then the water return line off.

I replaced the valve. The only problem I ran into is t ... Read more hat the inlet portion required a new brass "ell" - the one that was on the old piece would have of course been ok, however, it was solidly in place in the old water inlet valve

the only other issue, and one that would probably be commonly encountered - when I first went to turn off the water supply to the DW, the valve leaked - I was fortunate to be able to take the valve apart, clean it and put it back in place

Contrary to info on your website, the bezel is removed by turning it counterclockwise. This misinformation wasted a lot of time. The bezel is difficult to turn. I used a home-built wrench: drive two screws spaced 3 inches apart through a stick of wood, projecting 5/8 inch. Engage the screws in the slot in the bezel and in the gr ... Read more ill, and turn ccw. I cleaned the deposits from the surface where the gasket seals with white vinegar. New gasket and bezel fixed the problem.

The parts were to ship on Monday, which they did and they arrived on Wednesday. The job took less than five minutes and it was done by hand. The parts were as described and were exactly what needed to be replaced. It was simple matter of putting the water tube on the spray arm receiver and then attaching them to the upper spray arm. I ... Read more t required only a little working of the parts back and forth, by hand, and then fitting them into place. It was a very simple and inexpensive repair.

We were told by a repair guy to buy a new dishwasher-about a $900+ cost to replace. Then a local parts place and Sears each quoted us $85 for the part plus $129 to come out. Found your website and bought the part for $17. Also bought a hard rubber gasket that fits on the bottom of the door for $8. The brackets that came with that last par ... Read more t were the hardest to install, but the gaskets took 15 minutes. We did glue another strip of the long door gasket along the area under the door lip. Works great! Saved over $800. You rock!