KSM85 Mixer - Instructions
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Mixer was overloaded, and began to smell hot and make noise. Did not recover when load was removed.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
James from WEST NEWBURY, MA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.
Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the ... Read more crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.
I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.
Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.
The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.
Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!
Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the ... Read more crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.
I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.
Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.
The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.
Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!
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planetary gear would not turn; discovered worm gear was broken upon dis-assembly of mixer
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from GREENWOOD, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed step-by-step video instructions for dis-assembly/reassembly found at ereplacementparts.com. All went well except when driving out the pin that holds the worm gear in the tower. The video wasn't exactly clear enough about what position the pin should be in when driving it out and I inadvertently drove the pin out so that it was
... Read more
trapped inside the tower assembly. Result? I had to bend the pin to get it out, causing an extra expenditure and wait time to order a new pin. So, lesson learned: be sure the pin is horizontal to the tower and not perpendicular to when driving the pin out. Also, I found that having the mixer apart was a good time to replace the grease in the housing. I don't think it would be required to replace the grease at this time but I was worried that pieces of the old worm gear could remain in the grease and possible get jammed in the gears after repairs were completed. Be sure to get a "food grade" grease not grease from your local auto parts store! The table knife was the best tool to use to remove the grease and to smear the grease all over the internal gears when replacing it.
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use your phones to take pic of how the wiring is to be reconnected, take pleanty from all angles
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from FREEPORT, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck
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Plastic boke on the old thumb screw
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alice from St Louis, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
unscrewed the old one........screwed in the new one, no chance for electrocution or power tools..........darn!
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mixer would not turn
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Wewahitchka, FL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.
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Speed switch wouldn’t stay in off position
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from CUBA, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Watched a YouTube video to disassemble,from there went smoothly. One small piece of advice,take pictures with your smart phone during the process. Makes remembering easier.
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Attachments would not work, spindle turned erratically, with no power
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kerry from Sherwood, OR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior t
... Read more
o removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.
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spent Pevel Pinion Center Gear
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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EUGENIO from MIAMI, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse o
... Read more
rder as they withdrew.
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plastic outer casing on tightening screw had broken
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Peggy from Escondido, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
This is the tightening screw that holds the attachments into the motor unit of the mixer. Found your web site and reordered 2 replacement pieces (in case one breaks!). Very EZ and user friendly. Thank you!
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End seal broken and Cover tabs broken.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from Petersburg, MI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged mixer. Removed screw holding cover on. Removed end seal. Inspected repair area for furhter damage. Installed new end seal and cover.
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broken wire whip
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stanislaw from San Antonio, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
no instructions necessary
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Pin was missing therefore no mixing function
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from COLUMBIA, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Place Pin in hole where it was missing then gently tap pin into place
Run a test and all is good ??
make sure to use a drift pin set
Tom
Run a test and all is good ??
make sure to use a drift pin set
Tom
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The speed linkage was broken inside the mixer.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Nancy from CAPE CORAL, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Literally the whole top of this stand mixer had to be taken apart. With the help of U-tube! We realized the silver strip was removable and there where screws underneath. We figured we would replace both parts while it was all taken apart. We cleaned the mixer and added some grease where necessary. I now have a 25 year old new mixer. Thank
... Read more
s for having our parts and guiding us with a diagram of the unit. Very helpful.
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Mixer would not turn on
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from MARTINEZ, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pulled off end cover. Used the how-to video's to show me how to remove the (3) components (watch out when it comes to removing the spring). Removed all (3) components (one issue was the black cardboard seal, which because of its age broke. Hindsight tells me that I should have purchased a replacement seal along with the (3) new parts.
... Read more
r /> Fixed the broken part of the seal with scotch tape). Installed all new parts with the help of the video's and put the cover back on. Even with the new parts, the mixer would not run. Come to find out, after I took it to an appliance repair person, that someone had pulled both brushes and put them back in improperly. I could not find a how-to video that showed me how to de-install/re-install the brushes properly. I assume that was because new brushes were no longer available for purchase. At any rate, when the brushes were put in properly, everything worked. The repair person also adjusted the (2) screws on the speed control plate so that when you change the speeds via the lever, it all works properly. I didn't find a how-to video covering those adjustments either.
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Updated cord fitting into 40 year old mixer
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Claire from Germantown, TN
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers
We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through.
... Read more
The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.
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