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KHWS02RMT2 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions
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Kenmore Bellow between door and washer tub ripped
19 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerome from Albquerque, NM
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I followed the repair blog by the poster most liked...
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Washer filling up with water when not in use
18 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dominick from Parker, CO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Very simple repair:
- Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.)
- Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off.
- Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds v ... Read more alve assembly in place.
- Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-)
- Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly.
- Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.
I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.
- Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.)
- Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off.
- Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds v ... Read more alve assembly in place.
- Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-)
- Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly.
- Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.
I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.
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would not spin of agitate
20 of 28 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Hartselle, AL
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and
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trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.
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FH code-4 minutes into cycle
17 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from LITLE RIVER, SC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.
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Motor Control Board faulted.
21 of 32 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brent from Normandy Park, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I read the instructions once and then started. It was easy but did take an hour to do the entire job.
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not pumping out the water
20 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dale from Ridgely, MD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnected 2 hoses and 1 screw and remove3d the old pump and reversed the proceedure to install the new pump.A piece of cake. Thanks
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leak suddenly developed
16 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from Troy, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of
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pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.
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Washer was reporting F20 (Water Pressure)
16 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from BINGHAMTON, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the
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plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.
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Detergent leaking under Dispenser Drawer down front of Washer
30 of 63 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Geof from Garner, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Secondary problem was bleach being siphoned from dispenser prematurely when drawer slid in. Replaced Drawer, Detergent Container and Bleach Siphon parts. Appears to have been a change in the siphon design when compared to the original factory part. 5 loads completed since replacement of these parts with no premature siphon of bleach or
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leakage down the front of the washer.
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Constant washer Faulting with a FH fault code
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bruce from Salisbury, MD
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several
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times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.
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Low water intake pressure error
13 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Rye Brook, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.
Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three sc ... Read more rews at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.
Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.
Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three sc ... Read more rews at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.
Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.
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Worn out hose had a hole it it.
16 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Edward from Clinton, MD
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers
I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.
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OEM hinge was rusting to the point that it broke on one side
14 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from Peyton, CO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The repair was rather easy. It involved the removal of all the bolts around the glass door and only the bolts on the hinge conected to the washer itself. there was a bit of alignment problem when put back together, minor rubbing, but not much. The door now works close to as good as new.
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Door leaked water
14 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from Spirit Lake, IA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First step was to remove old bellow. I opened the door there is a small wire with a spring attach that holds the outside of the bellow to thw washer. Then removed it from the water inlet, then took a short straight scewdriver to remove the gaint hose clamp holding it to the drum. Installed the new part. When putting hose clamp back on I r
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emoved the top of the washer by removing the three screws in the back then I flipped the hose clamp so I could use a long screwdiver from the top side.This will give you alot more room. Hope this helps
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Baffle broke and became disconnected from drum
13 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Geneva, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
slid new baffle into place. No directions with new part, fortunately it was easy to figure out how baffle locked into place.
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