KGRS5 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

replaced light socket but did not repair problem. must have burned the motherboard.


pleased with service from your company.

Turned off CB for the oven,Remove the oven from the cabinet , remove the back of the oven, replaced the light Assembly. turned on CB for the oven, tested the light. and truned off the CB and replace the back and reinstalled the oven in the cabinet.

unscrewed screws in the back of the stove. inside the stove, replaced the old bake igniter with the new one and connected the electrical wire in the back of the stove.

shook bottle and painted waited a day and repeated

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discol ... Read more oring refer handles. Thank you

This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The secon ... Read more d one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.

Remove the big back panel (5 phillips screws). Confirm voltage is present when attempting to start the oven by unplugging the PROPER ignitor. I say proper because initially I thought that the broil ignitor was the culprit. Very upper ignitor is the broiler ignitor and the next one down is the ignitor for the upper oven. You will notice th ... Read more at the ignitor plugs differ between broiler and oven. New ignitor should have a male end. Once I confirmed that voltage was present when attempting to turn on the upper oven and probing the ignitor terminal plug, I proceeded to remove the lower cover inside the oven (2 screws very front side) and remove the burner assembly. (First you'll need to remove the oven door, easy, just tilt out part way and slide it up and off of the rails). The ignitor is mounted to the burner assembly. It's inevitable, the 5/16 hex screws (x2) will absolutely strip out so make sure you have some extras on hand. Replace the ignitor, reinstall and you should be good to go! I've read that you shouldn't touch the element with your fingers as this will compromise the life of the ignitor. Good luck!

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adju ... Read more st front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

1. Opened oven door and removed bottom covers plates to expose igniter and removed it. 2. Located hole in oven rear where the igniter connector and leads went through. 3. Pulled oven forward to allow access to rear bottom left cover plate where leads came through and removed plate to obtain access. 4. Installed replacement igniter in pla ... Read more ce of old iginter and ran its leads and connector through the oven hole. 5. Since the new igniter connector was unlike the old one, I had to replace the new igniter connector with the old one. Allowing sufficient lengths to properly make splices, I cut the igniter connectors off so that I could eventually match the mating connecter to the oven control circuit. I used a wire striper and pliers to make good splices. I covered the splices with plastic wire nuts normally used for insulating splices. I left the splices and the igniter connector outside the oven back for protection from the heat inside the oven. 6. After ensuring that oven insulation material was positioned to essentially cover the hole where the connector wires go through, I replaced the cover plate at rear of the oven and the cover plates inside the oven. 7. I checked oven for proper operation and found it now to be OK. Range was returned to normal position..problem corrected.

Replaced thrm

Followed instructions I found online at the Maytag site.

This is a no brainer. I am only doing this because you asked. Pull out the stove, tilt it back, remove broken leg, install new leg.

Removed two screws on sensor in the oven. Pulled out stove and after unplugging same removed the back panel. Sensor has an electric connection on the rear of the oven with a connection that is easily separated. Threaded new sensor electrical connection through inside of oven and connected on the back of stove. Pushed insulation back aroun ... Read more d the wire were in goes through to the oven. Replaced back on stove and screwed in two screws which hold sensor inside the oven. Replaced back cover on stove, plugged it in and pushed it back in place. Did the trick for me..

My used stove had been dropped by the previous owner. While I could live with the minor scratches on one side the wooden shims holding up one corner were annoying. A new leveling leg was less than $2. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to straighten the mounting hole and screwed the new leg in. This used stove was originally $2000 but I ... Read more bought it for $999. the new leg plus shipping was about $10. What a deal.

A fairly simple fix that this website did a nice job helping me diagnose and select the part. Only tricky part was the electrical connector on the range side had been cut so I had to splice the wires which wasn't a big problem. Just take your time to find the nuts and replace one part with another.