KGCD KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

I just took-off the old one and put the new one by hand.

Pushed the knob down on the spindle. Second order in three years.

Electrode ceramic was chipped. Spark was not coming to the top of the electrode, and stove would not light. Remove two burner screws. These are "baked" on...so use some liquid wrench first if you have it. Don't strip the head, or you'll have a mess. Remove burner, unplug electrode, remove electrode screw, replace electrode. Reverse ... Read more process and you're good to go!

Bought The burner with the electrode already installed. The only way to go, since the screws will not come out without breaking. Also purchased two torx screws as thay also broke. A bad design by the manafactor.Had to drill and tap out for new torx screws to fit into the gas houseing. PartSelect had all the parts I needed. Dan

Removed the burner & igniter as a unit. Screws holding burner down were very tight. One came out with effort, the other one the head broke off. Tried heat but to no avail. The screw holding the igniter had to be drilled out. Fortunatly I work in a machine shop so I was able to remove the screw, but the hole was then too large for the ... Read more replacement screw. I wound aluminum foil around a toothpick to form a bushing in the hole so the screw could grab. Same principle as those plastic anchors for plaster or drywall. Bought stainless screws, but did not even try to get the broken screw out of the cooktop. The one screw holds it in place just fine. Wife is very happy.

Do not buy just the burner electrodes. The screws that hold the electrode will break off. Purchase the burner head with electrode. I would recommend placing anti-sieze lub on the new screw that holds the electrode to the burner head so if the electrode fails again it can be replaced. The screws that hold the burner head to the top top ... Read more are mild steel and will rust and snap off. I would use a rust penatrent on these screws several days before trying to remove but most likely they will strip or break off. Replace all these burner head screws with stainless steel screws with anti-seize applied. If any of this sound difficult call a repair company.

My mother is a great cook that is always in a hurry ... and I know that she is not always pushing those plastic knobs DOWN before turning them. Frustrated with reordering these expensive plastic knobs,I decided to get smart. I reordered 6 knobs (this is the 3rd time in 2 years). These knobs are designed to break. I decided to reinforce th ... Read more e plastic that goes around the knob shafts. At first, I thought about using some rigid metal bird bands like on a parrot. I second thought that this would be too difficult to find the perfect size to fit the outside diameter of the knob, so I decided to buy slightly smaller diameter, tightly coiled, sturdy, steel springs to fit around the plastic that fits onto the shafts. I manipulated each spring to become slightly larger to fit over the plastic by twisting the spring in the direction of uncoiling it. Not permanently unbending it, but just enough to make it grow in diameter to fit around the outside. I clipped the excess wire from the spring with wire cutters and reinforcerd everything with a coat of good strong epoxy . It seems that the metal spring and epoxy bonded to the knob became SOLID AS A ROCK. I figured, if the plastic can't split from the D- SHAPED shaft, then we have a knob that is as good as if it were made out of metal.

Screws holding burner base and ignitor were plain steel. If they had been stainless they probably would not have rusted in so tight. One in the base broke off, and the one holding the ignitor could not be removed, even with heat from a torch. I ended drilling it out and re-tapping the hole. If I wasn't mechanically inclined I would ha ... Read more ve had to give up and order a new burner base.