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KESS907SSS02 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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burnt out element
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Bruce from ELKTON, OR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
good, used tie wire with a hooked end to fish one wire out of the back, to keep from removing the oven
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oven would not heat up, after self cleaning
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Chicago, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select.
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Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.
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Oven upper heating element went out.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lewis from WICHITA, KS
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned the breaker off to the stove.
Removed 4 screws holding the element in place.
Disconnected the electric connection from element.
I had to replace the screws which were corroded.
Connect the new element electric connection.
Replace the 4 screws.
Turn on the power.
Turn on oven to burn off the smell ... Read more of the new element.
You are done.
Removed 4 screws holding the element in place.
Disconnected the electric connection from element.
I had to replace the screws which were corroded.
Connect the new element electric connection.
Replace the 4 screws.
Turn on the power.
Turn on oven to burn off the smell ... Read more of the new element.
You are done.
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Baking element failed
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ROBERT from BISMARCK, ND
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Remove the oven from the wall
Remove the rear panel
Remove the 2 bottom panels
Lift and fold back the insulation
Remove the element enclosure
Replace the element
Reverse the steps to assemble
* the oven would not preheat and the top elements were working
Remove the rear panel
Remove the 2 bottom panels
Lift and fold back the insulation
Remove the element enclosure
Replace the element
Reverse the steps to assemble
* the oven would not preheat and the top elements were working
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Dual inner element stopped working. The ceramic portion had a crack most likely from thermal stress over the years.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dominique from ASHLAND, MA
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I found a YouTube video for Maytag Range Repair – How to replace the Surface Element with Limiter - 6" - 1200W
The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws ho ... Read more lding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
The steps are very easy-
1. Open oven door and locate and remove 2 screws holding top cook surface. These are located near the top inside edge
2. Lift surface cook top and then remove 4 screws ho ... Read more lding this section to the cook top. This may require 2 people but I was able to hold the cook top and loosen the 4 screws myself. Then put the cook top aside.
3. Take a photo of the element being replaced for wiring connections.
4. Removing the wiring and element holding clips was very easy. I used needle nose pliers for both
5. The clips have to be removed from the old element and put on the new one. Place them in the same locations
6. Make sure to reconnect the wires to the same pin locations. The replacement element I had the red (hot) wire pin 2b was in
A different location so I had to use the extension wire supplied with the new replacement element
7. Put everything back together in reverse order.
Easy peasy, took me about 40 minutes to complete the entire replacement and have it back in place working.
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Old dual burner lost one half. It appeared the metal strip that wound into and around the circle, broke right where it came into the inside of the entrance, and I wasn't about to try and break everything open to try and fix it, as it didn't look like soldering would be easy, or that it would fix it.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Chris from WHEATON, IL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of
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that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.
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Broiler quit broiling
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from BOLIVAR, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned off circuit breaker to oven
Removed oven door
Removed screws of reflector plate and top and back of oven
Gently pulled element out and down slightly
Removed slide crimps on wires
Replaced reflector plate on new element
Connected slide crimps on wires
Screwed reflector plate with new element to to ... Read more p and back of oven
Done. Total time 22 minutes
Tested and it’s perfect!
Removed oven door
Removed screws of reflector plate and top and back of oven
Gently pulled element out and down slightly
Removed slide crimps on wires
Replaced reflector plate on new element
Connected slide crimps on wires
Screwed reflector plate with new element to to ... Read more p and back of oven
Done. Total time 22 minutes
Tested and it’s perfect!
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Other Parts Used:
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Oven temperature did match target temp entered on control panel.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from EVANSTON, WY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I found that what was keeping the old temp sensor electrical connection attached to the stove-side connection was a little tab. It wasn't obvious that that was the thing that was keeping the connection secure but there weren't any other alternatives. So pushing the tab up with the metal probe (just a narrow rigid metal wire) allowed me
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to pull the connection apart.
All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.
Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.
All this takes place way at the back of the oven so its difficult to fiddle with a screwdriver and the retaining screws at arms length. Putting a bit of scotch tape around the screw to keep it attached to the screwdriver kept it from falling off. My hand was a bit shaky extended like that so that was the way to go.
Bottom line, if your oven won't reach or hold the temp you dial in on the control panel it's the temperature sensor. Now if I set it for 300 deg. that's what I get.
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My oven racks were badly discolored, because I left them in the oven during self cleaning
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Domer from ST PETERSBURG, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.
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Oven wouldn't heat after a self clean mode.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Enola, AR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.
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YouTube
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Janet from GALLATIN, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Quickly
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small inner burnner out
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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phillip from RUTH, NV
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
looked on internet on how to remove top. an easy fix after watching video
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door hinges worn out oven door not fully closing
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tony from HAYDEN, ID
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove and replace oven door hinges. Disassembly of oven door unit required. Step by step instructions available on youtube.
Other Parts Used:
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blower noisy and slow to turn
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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STEPHEN from CORAM, NY
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First I looked at how I would get to the blower - this took 15 minutes. I removed the grills to access the burners. Then I removed the burners that took approx. 15 minutes. I then had to remove the knobs for the burners. Next I had to remove the front control panel which had 2 screws - (did not disconnect any wires but supported it)
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. Next I had to remove the side trim. Next I removed 4-5 screws that secured the upper burner range top. Next I removed the side panels which has a braket on the lower forward side and 2 rear screws on each panel. Next I had to remove the aft backspash guard. At the back I had to remove a support braket that had several screws - then I had to remove the exhaust fan back panel guard. Next I had to remove approx. 7 screws on each side of the stove that supports the burner valves. Then I lifted the left side most closest to the blower. This gave me access just enough to remove the mounting screws (4) and to remove the 2 wires. There was some cushioning material which I found inadequate to prevent any vibration when the fan and the valve support top sits on the blower - so I doubled it. Then I reinstalled everything. This job took me 4 hours. I suggest calling a Kitchenaid repair technician and not doing this yourself. Unless you are a mechanically inclined and really like frustration.
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cooktop cooling fan didn't operate
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from Hillsdale,, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled out stove and removed side panel, then removed old fan unit. Installed new fan unit and replaced side of stove then slide back in place, stove runs even more quiet than when it was new. And obtaining the new part from Partselect was even easier than dealing with a part store where you stand at the counter. This service really has t
... Read more
he part down pat for us layman repair people.
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