KERS5 KitchenAid Range - Instructions
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oven bake heater was bad. 8" burner socket went bad from loose connection burner connection got ruined.
10 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from MIDDLETOWN, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
two Phillips head screws hold the oven unit in. It culls out and the wires just disconnect. Reinstall in reverse and test.. The burner socket I cut the wires from the old socket and splice the new pigtails onto the existing wires and install the socket. The instructions in the package are good for people that aren't used to doing repairs.
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both upper oven door springs broke. Door would not stay closed except with "self-cleaning latch in place"
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from GALT, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY GOOD DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO REPLACE DOOR SPRINGS ON A BUILT-IN DOUBEL OVEN ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET. I HOPE THIS WILL BE OF HELP TO SOMEONE.
I correctly assumed it was the springs that broke. With the springs in hand I shut off the power at the breaker box. I removed both oven doors. The upper oven door ... Read more required the removal of one screw for each hinge. Then with the door slightly open, wiggle and pull upward and the door detached from the hinge. The lower oven door is removed by just wiggling and lifting with the door slightly open. I then removed 8 screws that fasten the oven to the cabinet. I removed 3 screws that hold the bottom vent cover in place and wiggling and pulling downward the vent cover detached. The bottom of the oven was 11 inches above the floor. I placed two sturdy objects about 10 inches tall in front of the oven and lifting, wiggling, and pulling the oven moved forward. I pulled it out about 2/3 of its depth.
The sheetmetal sides of the oven are indented and the spring attachments are easily accessible. ONE TROUBLE SPOT. The back end of the spring attaches to the cabinet but there is a small metal piece called an "anchor" that attaches to the front of the spring and then to the hinge. When the spring breaks the anchor goes flying. I was able to retrieve one of the anchors but the other one fell down between the insulation and the side of the cabinet and I was not able to retrieve it with out pulling the side loose. I was afraid I would run into other issues if I did that. So my oven is sitting in the kitchen while I wait 3 days for a replacement anchor.
The anchor is about $7 and the 2-3 day shipping is $10 so you might do well to just order one along with the spring.
I ordered a pair of lower door springs at the same time. About $10 each. Worth it to me not to repeat this process in the near future.
Once the oven is pulled out, the springs are very easy to install. I did all three I could do in about 10 minutes max.
MY BIGGEST PROBLEM was deciding how to get at the springs. All diagrams in the installation manual showed solid metal sides on the oven. They did not show that the springs we easily accessible outside the oven case. I was pleasantly surprised to see the indentations as I started to slide the oven out of the cabinet!
With the springs installed, I will just push the oven back into the cabinet, install the 8 screws, replace the lower vent cover and install the doors. Turn on the breaker and receive the applause of my wife for my marvelous ability!
I correctly assumed it was the springs that broke. With the springs in hand I shut off the power at the breaker box. I removed both oven doors. The upper oven door ... Read more required the removal of one screw for each hinge. Then with the door slightly open, wiggle and pull upward and the door detached from the hinge. The lower oven door is removed by just wiggling and lifting with the door slightly open. I then removed 8 screws that fasten the oven to the cabinet. I removed 3 screws that hold the bottom vent cover in place and wiggling and pulling downward the vent cover detached. The bottom of the oven was 11 inches above the floor. I placed two sturdy objects about 10 inches tall in front of the oven and lifting, wiggling, and pulling the oven moved forward. I pulled it out about 2/3 of its depth.
The sheetmetal sides of the oven are indented and the spring attachments are easily accessible. ONE TROUBLE SPOT. The back end of the spring attaches to the cabinet but there is a small metal piece called an "anchor" that attaches to the front of the spring and then to the hinge. When the spring breaks the anchor goes flying. I was able to retrieve one of the anchors but the other one fell down between the insulation and the side of the cabinet and I was not able to retrieve it with out pulling the side loose. I was afraid I would run into other issues if I did that. So my oven is sitting in the kitchen while I wait 3 days for a replacement anchor.
The anchor is about $7 and the 2-3 day shipping is $10 so you might do well to just order one along with the spring.
I ordered a pair of lower door springs at the same time. About $10 each. Worth it to me not to repeat this process in the near future.
Once the oven is pulled out, the springs are very easy to install. I did all three I could do in about 10 minutes max.
MY BIGGEST PROBLEM was deciding how to get at the springs. All diagrams in the installation manual showed solid metal sides on the oven. They did not show that the springs we easily accessible outside the oven case. I was pleasantly surprised to see the indentations as I started to slide the oven out of the cabinet!
With the springs installed, I will just push the oven back into the cabinet, install the 8 screws, replace the lower vent cover and install the doors. Turn on the breaker and receive the applause of my wife for my marvelous ability!
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Baked on sauce
12 of 16 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Julie from Newnan, GA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.
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Bad Element
14 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dean from Farmington, NY
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove top by opening oven and taking out two screws in the front. Lift up top and unplug wire connectors on bad element, writing down where they are landed. Take out screw on element bracket and replace. That easy. Be sure to unplug appliance for your safety. :-) Also just wanted to add that PartSelect was great. Ordered it on saturda
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y and was cooking with it on tuesday. Great job.
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Oven light would not work--faulty socket
10 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Delores from Warren, MN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
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Both heating elements would not work.
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lee from Austin, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
After shutting off the power, I removed the door and oven racks. Then, by using a screwdriver, I removed each element one at a time and replaced with the new element. Each element pulled away from the back wall and was connected electrically by Sta-Kon connectors. All went well, and the unit was operational in about 30 minutes. I stil
... Read more
l have to remove the oven from the wall to replaced the two door springs.
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Baking Element burned out.
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rick from Pineville, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turn Off Breaker.
Removed oven racks....
Removed two screws holding element in place...
Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....
Replace oven racks.
T ... Read more urn Breakers back On.
Done 10 Min. Install
Removed oven racks....
Removed two screws holding element in place...
Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....
Replace oven racks.
T ... Read more urn Breakers back On.
Done 10 Min. Install
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Original bake element had open circuited, fortunately the day after Thanksgiving and not on Thanksgiving
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from MCKEESPORT, PA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the two Philips head screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Pulled off the two wire terminals from the spades on the back of the element. Pushed the two wire terminals onto the spades on the back of the new element. Noticed that one was not tight, so disconnected, squeezed down the wire terminal, and reco
... Read more
nnected. Inserted the two screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Element works fine.
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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Broken Oven Door
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from Leawood, KS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
This is an easy fix. Just before the holidays, it was imperative that this appliance be in top shape. Since the door 'hung' wrong, it was determined that the hinge pin broke. Remove the 2 phillips head screws on the door and open the door to the to a 15 degree opening. This position allows you to slip the door off the hinge levers. N
... Read more
ow that the door is off, replace the hinge pin and slip the retainer ring on with a screw driver blade to push it on the pin. Slide the door back on the levers and fasten the retainer screws. DONE!
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Original oven light lens had cracked and broken in two.
17 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pat from Bucklin, KS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).
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Heating Element broken
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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PATRICIA from VACAVILLE, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
My husband wanted me to call a repair man but I had read online how easy it was. I received my element in one day from Fresno, CA and followed the instructions given by others on line. I couldn't believe how easy it was. The most difficult was removing the connectors because they were stuck. I used needle nose pliers as someone sugges
... Read more
ted. Saved the cost of a repair man.
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Broiler wouldn't heat
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Diane from Mill Valley, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the ovem door, then I removed the 4 screws, unplugged element and plugged in the new one, then replace the screws and door. It should have been a 10 min job but I'm old and a bit fat...slowed me down.
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The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
7 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jared from UNION GROVE, AL
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the ... Read more wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
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element half lit
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Gerald from Perry, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
removed back of stove, removed 2 screws holding element, disconnected element and removed it, then reversed procedure. excellent service from part select and will use them again when needed.
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