KERA KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Since no instructions are provided with the part and not having seen the oven with the glass door in place, the major problem was figuring out how things went together. The top handle MUST be removed and the bottom trim need not be (although I had already done so). After removing the top handle the glass slips into the bottom trim easil ... Read more y, but the edges set ON TOP of the side plastic trims (left and right), not under the edge as it would appear if you have never seen the original door in place. Properly positioning the glass door then lets the top handle slip back on and the two screws replaced to hold it all to gether. Another pair of hands helps hold it all together until the top handle is fixed back in place. It's quite simple in reality, and instructions would have made it so.

My husband did the repair and said it was very easy to do with the following instructions that I got from the Fix Ya website.

This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). Firs ... Read more t it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what of frustration I decided to tackle the problem mthey would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day myself.

The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!

The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.

This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!

Turned off electricity! Pulled stove out -lifted up glass top(carefully) simply removed burned out coil and replaced it with new one.

The glass caps that cover the bulbs screw out by hand. Then, it was just like changing any other light bulb. I put the caps back on, and magically, we could once again see our food cooking. We had asked other repair companies to replace the bulbs when we had other major work done, but they either didn't want to take the time to get a part ... Read more number, or didn't want to get it for us. On the PartSelect website, it was easy for us to find and order, not to mention we saved at least $75.00 on the service call alone. Thanks PartSelect!

Easy, pulled out the old dis-colored racks and slid the new ones in. I was VERY happy with the quick receipt of my order. If I ever need parts again,this is where I will go

I removed the bottom gasket retainer , single screw, with a screwdriver. The old gasket just pulls away. I cleaned the area under the old gasket with soap and water. I installed the new gasket whcih easily slips in place with the already installed retainer wires into the pre drilled holes.

Viola. Lokks like new.

Not a repair. Just needed to replace the meat probe sensor for the programmable oven. Quick and easy purchase and very fast delivery took care of the problem. I was back in business.

I went online to read the instruction. Started doing it and was done in less than 30minutes. It was easy and the replacement part was inexpensive and got shipped in really fast. I probably would have spent hundreds of dollars if i called a handy man to repair it. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Tried to do it myself and broke the left trim piece. Use two people!

really easy! Removed 2 screws under the glass top at the front, access from the open oven door, then removed the ground wire, removed the stove top, took the element holder off,( 2 screws)and replaced with new element, 30 minutes. I ordered the part and came within 18 hrs of ordering it, fantastic experience.

To access the hidden bake element you have to remove the warmer drawer and the left side panel (your left from the back of the oven). To remove the side panel you need to access 3 screws under the side of the glass top, to lift the glass top open the oven door and remove 2 screws from the bottom side of the glass top. Once the drawer and ... Read more side panel are removed you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the false bottom on the front side of the oven and remove 2 more screws on the side so it drops down. Move the insulation out of the way and relase the element tray by prying out 2 tabs on the front side. Unplug the connectors from the element terminals and remove the bolt holding the element. Fold the side of the element tray down to remove the element. Reverse order to install.

Don't, Don't, Don't!!!!!!! call a repair man to replace the thermo fuse. If you are able to use the T.V. remote and crack a twist top off a cold beer, then you can DO this. I am 47 years old and half retarded and my 84 year old neighbor and I completed this task in 12 minutes. Turn off the breaker panel, pull the oven out, (it is hard ... Read more wired). We placed it on a 4 wheeled dolly. Unscrew 11 screws, pop the panel. The fusee is at the top/center with two screws holding it. Pull the two wires off, screw it back in place. Put back the panel & 11 screws. Put the oven back in place. Turn on the breaker and you are done. PS Tell your wife or girl friend this might take an hour or so. Send her to the store for a six pack & steak.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. ... Read more The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Safety first always shut breaker off at box.
I unplugged stove, disconnected wires keeping in mind the color placement. Unscrewed one ground screw and removed terminal block. Attached new block with ground screw, replaced wires in correct order, re-attached plug. Then reattached safety cover. Pretty simple for d.i.y.

1. Disconnected power from my oven.
2. Removed several screws that held the control block
3. Removed two screws that held the switch itself disconnected wires and removed switch
4. Reconnected all wires to new switch (no soldiering gun required)
5. Put control block back

Overall - very easy