KECX KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off ... Read more
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Removed all surface burners from range, removed range top screws, and suspended range top. Removed plug-in block mounting screw. Cut wires for plug-in block close to original wire-nut junction. Inserted contacts & wires from kit into plug-in block. Slid a provided shrink sleeve onto each wire. Stripped wires on range wires and then connec ... Read more ted them to the plug-in block wires with the provided high-heat wire nuts. Selected one of the two provided plug-in block brackets that matched the original bracket on the range. Used a butane lighter to shrink the shrink sleeves over the wire nut connections. Snapped the appropriate bracket onto the plug-in block. Reassembled everything in reverse order and plugged in new element. Note: my only two issues are that the two high-heat wire nuts provided in the kit were a bit too small for the wire gauge in my Whirlpool range. It took some fiddling on my part by carefully re-stripping the range wires to get the wire nuts twisted on securely. Two more wire nuts of the next size up would have been appreciated. Also, I found that the provided plug-in block mounting screw did not find fit my range. No problem; I simply re-used the original screw. All in all, an easy repair and the element works perfectly.

THIS WAS A STOVE TOP BURNER ELEMENT ///
THE OLD ONE JUST FELT APART AND A NEW ONE WAS\NEEDED. i USED THE PHONE # GIVEN INSTEAD OF USING MY
COMPUTER ... AND THAT WAS A VERY GOOD EXPERIENCE
TALKING TO A LIVE PERSON WHO WAS VERY PLEASANT
AND HELPFUL. i WISH i'D WRITTEN DOWN HER NAME.
NOTHING LIKE "LIVE COMMUNICATI ... Read more ONS" i CAME FROM
THE DEPRESSION ERA... WHEN PEOPLE STILL TALKED TO
ONE ANOTHER RATHER THAN HAVING THEIR HEADS BPWED
DOWN TO THE CELL PHONES! O WELL..THAT'S PROGRESS!

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don ... Read more 't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included exten ... Read more sion wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

I followed the instructions provided.

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as supp ... Read more ort to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

Ordered element, it came within 3 days.
Removed tab and plugged in, easy peasy ??

Repair was very east. The suppliers package had all of the necessary parts ceramic wire nuts wire Ect. Excellent.
Will buy from Part Select Appliance again.

I removed the block, cut and spliced the wires to the new block and installed the burner. I used the new style block kit and saved about $30. It worked great!

Shut off power to the stove.
I removed the screw that held the block in place. Then I lifted the top of the rage to get to the wires. I cut the wires from the old block and stripped back the insulation. Next I put the heat shrinking sleeve on. I attached the new block with the wire nuts, pulled the sleeve down and used a hair dryer t ... Read more o shrink them. Then you just hook it back on screw it in and your done.

Someone did the repair for me.

so easy, just ordered the part, the part came and inserted the element into the stovetop

I removed each surface coil burner from its receptacle; removed the old drip bowls and replaced with the new ones; my stove looks good as new.