KECX KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

Followed instructions from previous repair story!!
Pulled old burner out. Unscrewed plug element. Cut old wires back about 6 inches from plug. Attached new part with wire nuts provided and covered with shrink sleeves provided. Attached plug with provided screw and slipped in new element. Works great!!
I want to thank the pr ... Read more evious posters for posting their detailed repair stories....without reading those, I may have called a repair service and paid big bucks. Thanks to all previous posters for the detailed information they provided!! PS...The parts arrived in amazingly quick!!

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ... Read more ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the count ... Read more er.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

Ok this is a glasstop jenn air cce3531b, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the ... Read more counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since I had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. Thanks you partselect

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

First I reviewed a video on YouTube by this site. Even though the range on the video was not the same as mind, it gave me an idea on what to do. I proceeded to pull the rang out from the wall and disconnected the power plug. Next I removed two screws from the back located on the left and used a flat blade screw driver to depress two brack ... Read more ets on the front to release the glass top panel. I unplugged the wiring harness and disconnected the grounding wire and took the glass panel off and laid it upside down on the kitchen table. I removed the old heating element first by unplugging the wiring and removing the brackets that held it in place. Installed the new one, plugged in all wirings, brackets, screws and replace the top back on the stove.

Very easy remove the burner and instill the drip bowls

Simple to do. Remove old element, remove screw holding socket, cut the socket wires with 2 inches to spare, assemble the newsocket and wires with heat shrink tubing, strip range wires, apply the wire nuts as instructed and shrink the tubning with a heat gun.

Screw on the socket to the range. Shut the lid and install the eleme ... Read more nt.

The replacemnet screw is thicker than the original one, so you might want to drill out the hole very slightly. I did not but the resistance was high on getting the screw fully seated.

Works great

Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining ... Read more clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

i really wanted a new stove, but budget wouldn't permit; so just had to insert the new ones and they work great with level cooking.

The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on th ... Read more e new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.

1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink slee ... Read more ves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works ... Read more great now!

Replaced with the new burner works like new. Thanks a bunch!

Unplugged old burner elements. Popped in new burners. Turned on the burners to test.