KECD805 KitchenAid Cooktop - Instructions

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off ... Read more
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

Very easy just followed manufacturers instructions.

Tools required - #2 Phillips and needle nose pliers. (possibly a new spade connector and stripper/crimper) (possibly a multi-meter)

Shut off the power and slide the range forward about 8-10 inches from the wall. It does not need to be completely in the open and perhaps would not need to be moved at all. Some of the parts may ... Read more be stuck with accumulation of cooking debris and grease, depending on age. Disassembly will be a bit more difficult than a new range because of this. Clean everything up before reassembly.

Open the oven door. Remove two screws, one on either side, below the control panel. Lift and work the control panel loose. It has two bullet shaped posts that engage slots in the front of the range. These are tight. Be patient and work it by lifting and pulling and wiggling the entire control panel. When loose, it will lay down flat supported by all of the wiring harnesses. In our case it did not stress the wires. If concerned, support it somehow.

There is a galvanized bracket that runs most of the width of the range and retains a rubber gasket on the front edge of the glass. Remove two screws that hold this bracket. The bracket easily comes loose, set it aside.

There is a stainless steel trim piece on each side of the cooktop, running from front to back. Each one is held in place by one screw in the front. Remove the screws and the two trim pieces will slide forward and can be removed. Set them aside.

There is a rubber gasket across the front edge of the glass cook surface. Remove it. The cooktop glass can now be lifted and worked loose from the rear rubber gasket that seals across the back edge. Set the cooking surface aside in a safe place. You now have access to the burner elements.

Using the needle nose pliers, work the spade terminal connectors loose from the burner that is to be replaced. Note their positions. The burner is held in place by two spring clips that attach the burner to a galvanized support bar that runs from front to back of the range. A screwdriver can be used to compress each clip allowing a tab to be lifted out of a slot in the galvanized bar. If needed, you can remove one front screw that holds the bar in place and lift it for better access, but while this is not necessary, it allows for a better view of the retainer clips and the tabs that fit into slots in the support bar. With both clips released, the burner is free to be removed.

Our burner clearly had a break in the coil, so there was no doubt about the cause of non-functionality.

The spring clips must be removed and transferred to the new burner. With both burners, face down on a bench, remove the screws that retain the clips to the old burner. Make note of the index numbers at the position of the old clips and place them at the same position on the new burner. This positions the burner when it is mounted so that the terminals are properly positioned to allow the wiring harness to be attached as it was.

With the spring clips in place on the new burner, place the burner back in the range and engage the tabs in the slots on the support bar. They will snap back into place. Reconnect the spade connectors. The burner should now be tested before reassembly. (see later)

In our case, when power was reestablished (but burner control in the off position) the Surface Hot light was on art all times, so we knew something was wired wrong, even though it was re-connected exactly as it had previously been. There are slight differences between the new burners and old burners that apparently impact the wiring. There are no markings on either the old burner or new burner to give clues as to how it should be wired. Neither was there any advice in the instruction sheet that came with the new burner. We tested all of the terminals with the power on (burner off) to determine what voltages were where and removed the cover of the small box to which the terminals are attached. This box contains small switches, and we were able to determine the new wiring scheme. By wiring it exactly as it originally was, we had inadvertently put power to the Surface Hot light full time and the same potential to both sides of the coil so it would not heat. With this corrected, it worked fine.

As always, reassembly is just the reveres of the steps taken to disassemble. It is a bit tricky to place the glass back in the rear gasket. Just be careful and work it into place. Also the front control panel can be challenging. Line up the bullets with the slots and work it into place. It will snap into place when it is close with the aid of the heel of your hand.

One other note. One of the four wires in the harness had a smaller female spade connector which had to be cut off and a new one crimped on in order to fit the new burner.

Because of the wiring logic issue that had to be troubleshot, this took about three hours, which included disassembly and reassembly twice (because we reassembled before testing), figurin

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don ... Read more 't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you

First I turned off the power. Next I disconnected the downdraft vent. Then I removed the cooktop knobs and turned it upside down on the counter. I then removed about 12 screws to remove the element housing. I then unsnapped the old element, disconnected the 3 wires, replaced it with the new element, replaced the housing and screws. I repl ... Read more aced the cooktop, reconnected the downdraft hose and turned on the power.

Removed unit from counter, removed 14 screws holding glass top to frame, removed ceramic element, swapped over mounting brackets to new element, checked wireing as per instruction sheet (direct replacement) connected wires, re-installed glass top to frame and placed back into counter. ops check good.

I used the digital multimeter for measure the voltage in the burner and in the digital part,I saw the electric cables

We removed 4 screws that let us raise the top of the stove. It was then very easy for my husband to remove the old burner and replace the new one. By ordering this part from you and installing it ourselves, we saved $248 from the quote we received from our "Maytag Repairman". Can't beat a deal like this and it was so easy.

received the part sooner than expected, all of the holes lined up, for being the first time working on a stove it could not have gone any better

Moved Oven from wall, removed eight screws holding down the Burner Top. Lifted Top and held it up to remove two screws on the side of the element. Disconnected four wires, replaced element, connected the four wires again and assembled in reverse mode of dissasembly. All went pretty simple, moving oven from wall and adjusting/level it back ... Read more in place was the most time consuming.
Part works fine, delivery was faster than expected during the Holidays. Good Job Thanks!!!
HAPPY NEWYEAR!!!!

Unplug appliance first. Remove rear cover plate (only to disconnect burner plug). Remove plastic upper side covers. Open oven door & remove two screws holding burner top. Lift off entire top, flip upside down and change element.

We looked online for instructions, not sure how to "lift" the glass top.... There were 2 screws/hex head at the front of the range under the top that when removed allowed the top to be lifted up ..... the elements are on the underside, and with the removal of a few screws and unplugging the element connections (real easy) the burned out e ... Read more lement was easily removed and the new one replaced... Less than 15 minutes for the whole operation...HOW COOL!

2 screws,coule plugs,test_OK.Fully functional for days now. Thank you !

I did exactly what your instruction video showed. The most important thing to remember is to TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST.