KBRS22KG KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Our refrigerator is about 29 years old. We were told once that a gasket repair would cost more than a new fridge. Not so. It cost about $230 for both the fridge and freezer gasket. We had some rust that had developed from not replacing them sooner around some of the screws. They had to be cut out and replaced with the next size up to hold ... Read more well. We cleaned everything thoroughly including behind the door compartments. We took those off the door. The guy in the video doesn’t do that. We replaced our freezer insulation also as it had gotten wet and was completely frozen. Overall, it took much longer because of our neglect over the years and believing someone when they said to just buy a new refrigerator. We love this one again, as much as we did when we bought it. The gaskets fit perfectly and after taping the doors shut overnight, they seal extremely well. We are very pleased.

Easy but time consuming. I followed the excellent video instructions on this site and read through all the user comments before starting. I am a handy 65 year old woman who did this alone. I put the gasket in the dryer for 15 minutes then laid it flat for 24 hours before starting. I used a kitchen spatula to release the failed gasket and ... Read more the plastic panel from the freezer door. The old freezer gasket allowed moisture into the insulation behind the plastic panel on the inside of the freezer door. The insulation inside was frozen solid and took several hours to defrost before I could continue, so prepare for down time by unloading your freezer. I used spray foam insulation after removing the old insulation and cleaning the plastic panel. The foam expands 2x so don't overfill the crevices or you will have to carve it out later like I did. It's really messy so wear gloves and protect surfaces. Putting it back together is easy. I used a heat gun to smooth out the kinks in the gasket and used the spatula to slide the gasket in place. I learned the hard way that there are 4 oval shaped openings on the plastic panel (one on each side) that should be screwed in first to align the panel correctly before screwing in the rest of the screws. My 25+ old fridge is running like new again! It's quieter and the blower isn't running as often. Very happy.

Took back cover off inside of Freezer. Removed fan and motor assemby and replaced with new parts from Partselect. The assemby came already put together, and was easier than I thought it'd be. Assembly comes with fan, motor, and metal housing. All you need is to screw it in, plug in the three wires, and its good to go.

I removed all food items from inside fridge/freezer doors.I then noticed how gaskets slip behind outter skin of both doors after removing all screws except a few on the top, inorder to keep from having entire door skin fall to the floor.Using back of spoon helps to properly fit gaskets into place without any rips.Using nut driver really ... Read more helps with saving time and the "hairdryer" suggestion really helps with having gasket seat firmly around entire unit.Just take your time and pay attention to corners,they may need a little streching.

Happen to locate your site by Google. Was impressed and really pleased to find a schematic and directions to find and remove and specs to test the water valve and Defrost thermometer using an electric multimeter. You cannot tell by "looking" at a component if it is still OK.
So I put all the freezer contents into my beach cooler. T ... Read more he repair went as follows.
1. Removed the 6 screws from the back panel and pulled it out of the way.
2. Located the defrost thermostat and pulled it off of the coil.
3. Pulled the two connections off and took it to the bench to test. It showed no readings indicating it was dead.
4. Ordered a new one which came in two days.
5. Had to change the electrical connections using wire nuts.
6. Reversed the process plugged the refrigerator back into the wall. It started and later on I was getting ice cubes.
A great experience. Don't mess with repair guy as they normally are not up to speed on all devices and you are paying for them to learn how to repair your appliance in several trips. Probably using this site. If you can follow instructions, you can do this stuff.
Note. I tested the Water valve using given instructions. More time is used moving things around than the actual repairs. I avoided $150.00 for a new ice maker unit.

Unplugged the refridgerator and cleared out the freezer section. Removed the panel at the back of the freezer(six 1/4 in screws )with a nutdriver and two screws on the evap.fan cover.

Moved the panel to one side and removed the wiring off the evap.fan assembly.

Then removed and installed the new assembly, re-attache ... Read more d the wiring and replaced the back panel and fan cover.
The assemble was identical to the one being replaced.

Total time about 25 minutes.

Pretty simple really after reading online some other owners' experiences. This is a bottom freezer unit. Remove the ice maker, the tray slides, and the back cover of the freezer box. In my case I had to thaw it out with a hair dryer as the cover was frozen in place. I checked the old 'stat and found it was bad; I temporarily wired the le ... Read more ads together until the new 'stat arrived. It does allow the refrigerator to warm up during a defrost cycle but it beats de-icing it twice.The defrost 'stat is clipped over the refrigerant line in the upper right corner of the box. Resistance was 65k ohms and wouldn't close on low temp (tested by clipping it to an exposed refrigerant line in another upright freezer) but there was no obvious damage. The one lead on the replacement 'stat has the wrong connector so you have to cut off the original lead from the old unit and splice it on the wrong lead on the new one. I used an epoxy sealed heat shrink type butt splice. Reassemble and let it run. One word of warning: be careful tightening any screws as they will strip easily

Snapped the new piece into place. You provided fast service and the right part, thank you for your service!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

The repair went very well. Once the sockethead cap screws were taken out of the seal and the ripped seal was removed, the door panel separated from the door itself allowing me to see that ice had already been forming within the insulation. I was fortunate to have decided to replace the seal when I did or further damage would have occurr ... Read more ed. After thoroughly cleaning the refrigerator and freezer I replaced the seal using a hair dryer as suggested to tighten the seal into place. Everything is working as it should once again.

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Ref ... Read more er to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

First time refridgerator repair, I was lucky this was not that bad of a job.

Removed food from freezer, took off ice maker by removing three screws, removed back panel by removing six screws. Once the back panel was removed, the fan assembly could be viewed while powered up. It was not spinning and air was not moving above or ... Read more below the fan. I removed the electrical connections by hand (with the 'fridge powered down) and removed the fan assembly by removing the two screws adhering it to the back of the freezer section. I replaced the fan assembly and had some difficulty because the new unit shipped by partselect had the electrical connections on the opposite side than the original assembly. The wires were barely long enough so I was able to make the connections and subsequently attached everythng in the same manner it was removed and the fridge works great.

Refrigerator door was removed and placed on a set of "horses". Fastners were loosened about 3/4 thread length. Old gasket removed. New one installed. It was necessary to use a "hair dryer" to take out shipping kninks.
Used a piece of 1 1/2 inch sheet styrofoam to seal the door
opening during the process so as not requiring empty ... Read more ing the
unit.

The freezer door was a bit more difficult. This one was done in place. The Styrofoam sheet was cut down and fit in this opening as mentioned above. Inner door panel was removed to reveal heavy ice build up inside door. This was allow to melt and removed along with the fiberglass insulation. New fiberglass insulation was installed and the door reassembled.

In general everything went quite smoothly. Fit on both gaskets was really good.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80.. ... Read more .would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

first thing i thought was the condenser was plugged so pulled out and cleaned with shop vacum backwards so it became a blower not a vacum cleaned it good and put together. wife noticed cracking noise inside freezer. took all freezer food and shelfs out. took 1/4 inch hex nut screws out and found complete condenser solid ice. did some rese ... Read more arch on internet and found parts select stories. i buy passed thermostate and hooked heating coils direct which then thawed condenser. checked timer by turning of and it worked fine until i got part and installed.