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KBRA20 Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KBRA20
46 - 60 of 1632

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Light Switch broke
48 of 78 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James Richard from St. Cloud, MN
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.
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Broken hinge on bottom drawer lid.
33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Dublin, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The lid that covers the front of the lower meat / produce drawer hinges upward on two small ( easily broken) plasic pins, one on each side of the drawer. One pin is moulded into each "END CAP" that also supports the drawer glides and glass shelf above. The entire end cap must be replaced to repair the hinge. The left side is easy (it's the only one I had to replace); the right side might be more difficult because the right end cap includes a temperature control.
1) Remove the two produce drawers above the lower drawer.
2) Lift off the front glass shelf support, the glass shelf, and the rear glass shelf support from below the two produce drawers.
3) Slide the lower drawer half way out. Remove the drawer lid by disengaging it from the remaining undamaged hinge pin on the OK end cap. Careful not to break the good one.
4) Slide the lower drawer all the way out, then lift up and towards you to remove it from its glides.
5) Using a 1/4" nutdriver or socket, remove the three recessed screws. Leave the drawer glide alone for now.
6) Pull the front of the end cap up and towards you about 3/4" to disengage it from a small retainig button at the top front. Pull the end cap toward you to disengage the two rear retaining fingers.
7) Using a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the drawer glide from the broken end cap and attach it to the replacement end cap. Note which end is the front before removing it.
8) Reassemble in reverse order. Again, be careful with the hinge pins.
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Had to replace a hose connector at the base of my refrig/frreezer
47 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leo from Salem, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Perhaps a helpful hint:

When aI received the hose adapter/connector, I inserted the 2 hose ends only to have water drip from the connection.
I used a utility knife to remove an inch from each side, then reinserted the hoses. That made the differnce. Dry as a bone.

LG
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The icemaker stopped filling the ice tray to make ice.
32 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
  • shannon from sierra vista, AZ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I checked the fuses and hoses in the back of the refrigerator to make sure water WAS in fact getting to the front of the fridge. Since the water through the front door worked fine, I had to check the water tube running to the ice maker. It was fine and water was waiting to go somewhere! I decided to pull the icemaker out of the fridge to see what I could fine. Once it was out, I took the ICEMAKER CONTROL AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY off (that's the side part with the dial on it). Only 3 screws to take that off, and it was EASY to see what was wrong once I took that off. There was a connection that was obviously bad (looked almost like it had burned out). My thought was that it was obvious what part was bad, what would it hurt for me to try to fix it myself? When I got online to find the part, PartSelect was the only one that I found that had the EXACT part that I needed, and lucky for me, there were multiple pictures of multiple angles of the part so I could compare and make sure I had the right one!! The part with shipping cost less than the cost of a repair tech to even come out and look at the fridge. Then add the cost of the part and labor if I had the repair tech fix it...I probably saved about $250!!!!
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Latch was broken on the filter cover and would not hold the filter in place.
36 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ken from St. Geogre Island, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Ordered a new filter cover, received in 2 days and installed it in about 5 minutes. Worked perfectly.
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Original parts had cracked due to cold weather
34 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from University City, MO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Wrench set
Original parts froze when the fridge was stored in the garage, so when we brought it in and hooked up the water supply we discovered the cracks.

I used a wrench to remove the back lower cover of the fridge. attached to that cover were both the parts I needed to replace. I removed one nut each per part so they were free of the back cover. Once free I unhooked the two electrical plugs per part and reattached the new part so as not to confuse the positions of the wiring. Then I did the same thing with the two hoses attached to each part, swapping old part for new. Once connected, I reattached the new parts to the back cover and replaced the back cover to the fridge. Connected the water line and tried the ice maker and water source on the door. I didn't realize it, but the filter, located in the refrigerator side of the unit had also frozen and cracked, so I had water now pouring from the fridge! Replaced that filter, cleaned up the water and everything is working great!

800 number customer service person Kim originally helped me locate the correct parts via schematic diagram, as no part numbers were visible on my broken parts. She was incredibly helpful and got the correct parts on her first guess ( she told me it was a guess but she was right on the money).
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Plexiglas in lid cracked after heavy object fell from shelf
28 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Ludington, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This was very easy...
1. Pulled pantry shelf to fully opened position
2. Carefully pushed left lid hinge in with thumb to clear lid
3. Gently lifted lid past lid hinge
4. Right side then easily cleared right hinge
5. Reversed above =>
6. Inserted new lid onto right hinge
7. Gently pushed left hinge in wi th thumb far enough for lid to slip into place
8. Slipped lift side of lid into place
9. Pushed pantry back into place
10. ALL DONE! Less then 10 minutes from opening replacement lid box to cleaning up.
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While cleaning frig, I broke the right side pin the crisper door pivits on.
31 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bryan from Panora, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I looked at new replacement part, saw what held the part to the frig. Then removed the crisper drawers and vegie drawers and related support pieces. Used socket wrench to take out three screws and started so remove endcap. Realized endcap was attached to a piece that controls air flow to drawer, located supporting screw, removed and entire assembly came right out. I fumbled my way through the linking mechanism being very careful not to force and break anything. Once I figured out how all this worked, it went back together in a few minutes. Replaced the four screws that held the 2 pieces (endcap and airflow) to frig, replace drawer slid, replaced all draws. Done 30 minutes, start to finish. I found Customer Service VERY helpful while ordering piece, couldn't believe it was under $10 and fit exactly! Thanks PartSelect.com!
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Icemaker arm was broken
33 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jason from Austin, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the c ables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)
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The black plastic or teflon coating on the ice mold was coming off in flakes and freezing in the ice cubes
32 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from Sunnyvale, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took out the ice collection box and auger to get access to the three screws holding the ice maker assembly against the left wall of the freezer. You can use a screwdriver or a nut driver. I then unpluged the assembly and wiggled it loose from the water fill tube. I assumed that unplugging the unit would disable the water valve but I put a plastic tub under the fill tube just in case. I studied the assembly on the kitchen table for a few minutes before I disasembled it. After removing a snapon plastick cover I removed three or four screws on the gearbox and was able to pull and wiggle the parts apart. The heater contacts have rubber O rings so you have to be firm pulling the mould out of and into the gearbox mount. Make sure it is fully seated. On reassembly note that the ice kicking arm is notched so it fits into the gearbox only one way and it helps to have it in position when you screw the gearbox back on. I also found the plastic ice guide that fits on top of the mold a little awkward in snaping back together. Make sure its fingers space evenly with the ice kicking arms.
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Ice maker mold was cracked and leaking water into the bin which then froze all the cubes together.
28 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • George from Cottage Grove, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the ice maker assembly from the freezer compartment (four nuts/ nut driver) and unplugged the wire harness. I discovered the nature of the problem and I went on the Internet to look for replacement parts expecting I'd have to buy the entire ice maker. When I found PartSelect.com I looked through the pictures of the parts avai lable for my ice maker. I found the correct part quickly and easily. And having an acurate photo on the site, I was able to match all the key features of the mold I had with the one on the screen. I ordered the part, and installed it the day it arrived with just a Phillips screwdriver and a nut driver. It functions perfectly.
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The refrigerator was freezing most products
27 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from MARION, IL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the light cover. Use a flat head screw driver to push in the tabs on the back of the program mount and pull down to expose the computer board. The Thermistor is clipped on under the vent holes on the right side. Cut both wires to remove the old thermistor strip a 1/4 inch off the remaning wires and the new thermistor wires twist bo th ends together crimp on the wire caps snap in the new thermistor reinstall the program board until the retainer clips snap into place, slide the light cover back on.
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Ice maker not working
33 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bruce from Biddeford, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The initial problem was that the ice maker was not working. I had the unit repaired at a local store and they assured me that it worked fine in their workshop. I believed that the valve was the next logical part to replace. The installation was very easy. I unplug the refrigerator and turned off the water. Removed two, easily reached, scr ews and pulled the unit out. Disconnected the wire harness (you may want to mark the top of the wire harness before removing for immedite alignment on reassembly) and tubing. Notice a spot in the tubing that had been kinked, so cut that out. Reassemble and turned everything back on. Installation went perfectly. Unfortunately, I still do not have ice and will be doing some additional trouble shooting to determine the next course of action. I may be in touch.
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The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater
29 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Flagstaff, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell
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The light switch on the refridgerator broke - no light.
36 of 58 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Albany, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!
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All Instructions for the KBRA20
46 - 60 of 1632