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KBRA20 Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the KBRA20
16 - 30 of 1632

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The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
110 of 140 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Chester, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
137 of 257 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clint from Rayville, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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loud hum from compressor, cycling overload switch, no cooling.
76 of 82 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Laura, OH
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I could hear a loud hum from the compressor motor cycling on/off every 5-10 seconds. Pulled the capacitor and relay switch from the compressor. Checked compressor terminals with ohmmeter, no shorts to ground so it was ok. A gravely substance rained out of the overload relay switch when I removed it, so I assumed it was bad. Didn't need to check the capacitor as it was only another $20 or so to replace. Also didn't notice any oily residue that would signify a coolant leak, so assumed the system was still pressurized. New relay switch and capacitor plugged right in, no tools needed. Re-secured the assembly with it's original keeper clip wire and I was done. Plugged it in and made sure it was cooling properly before replacing the various back cover panels. Like a new reefer! Couldn't have been easier. Just be careful with the capacitor when you remove it. It could hold a lethal electric charge.
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Freezer not defrosting
79 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james from southampton, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed shelf drawer. Then removed plastic coverings from back panel of freezer. Squeezed tabs of ice maker connector to push it behind the back panel. With nut driver, removed the four screws holding the panel and removed the panel. Used a hair dryer to remove frost from upper right area that contains the defrost thermostat. Cut out t he thermostat and removed the connector on the right from the defrost heater. Removed brown wire from a few of the clips. Attached orange wire from new thermostat to orange wire leading to connector removed from defrost heater and the brown wires to each other using the pliers and supplied crimpable wire nuts. Wrapped the connections with self fusing tape. Reconnected the wiring to the defrost heater and clipped the new defrost thermostat to where the defective one was removed. Used the hair dryer to melt the ice that was covering the drain, then a turkey baster to unclogg the drain. Put everything back together.
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not making ice
78 of 93 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pat from Dallas, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Installed new ice maker. It was easy - loosen two screws and unplug old wire harness. Put new unit in place. Did not realize new unit would not come with wire harness, but transferred old one to new ice maker (easy) and, "voila" some ice in 24 hours -- much ice since then. I am a 68 year old woman and it was "sort of fun" doing thi s job.
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Icemaker made a clicking noise then quit making ice
77 of 96 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Layton, UT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Motor from Part Select was 185W instead of 260W that came out of unit. After a bit of searching online, I found out the 260W had been obsoleted for lack of torque when harvesting ice.

Removal instructions: Unplugged fridge. Then I removed the screw on the bottom right rear of the unit. Then removed the plastic cover that covered the power connector. Pulled out the icemaker by pushing in the tab on the bottom left middle of the icemaker unit and pulling unit toward me. Unplugged the connector on the back right hand side. Removed the cover on the left side covering motor. Took out 3 philips screws and removed old motor with broken axle that spun freely (the source of the clicking noise). Put new motor in aligning harvest arm (the thing with the fingers) and did reverse of removal. Then plugged fridge back in and it started a harvest and the next morning I had a half tub of ice.
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No ice in ice trey
79 of 104 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from Leesburg, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace h olding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
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Ice maker not initiating harvest cycle (not making ice)
66 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Elgin, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.

The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.
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Frig not cold at all,Freezer was all defrosted
64 of 70 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Denise from SOUTHINGTON, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Well the frist thing I did was get out the all the paper work and look under trouble shooting.This frig has a list of codes to try to help narrow down what parts might be bad.Well at frist it seemed it was a Defrost Thermastat?Well thanks to PartSelect it showed me right where it was and step by step how to remove and replace it.It took m e over 2Hr's,after that I let the frig run all night and the next morning(yep warm frig)not the part I needed,well now Im mad,the local part store said you need a 3in1 jump starter easy to in stall at $50.Can'nt bring parts back no way weather thier opened or not.So get home and can'nt see how this jumper is going to wire up to my compresser?So on to the Web site to get some info,find out that this part gets a thumb's down,it puts out more volt's then needed and kills your compresser the reviews where very help full.So back to PartSelect to see more info,then I spoted the Overload/Relay and went to the back of my Frig and this part just plugs right into the compresser,I pulled it of with pliers and Bingo a burn spot melted right through the Overload/Relay.Ordered the right part the same as the old one.Put the part in and Bam,compresser fired right up.If I only did alittle more home work I could off saved alot of head ach and money.Thanks PartSelect I'll alway's click on to your web site for future parts and advise.
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The crisper drawers had cracked runners
66 of 80 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roland from Alexandria, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
Crisper drawers:
1. Removed crisper drawers from refrigerator.
2. Removed drawer front decoration panels.
3. Unpacked, inspected and rinsed out new drawers.
4. Attached drawer front decoration panels.
5. Transfered vegetables and fruit from old drawers to new drawers.
6. Installed new drawers in refrigerator.
7. Closed refrigerator door.
8. Total time about 15 minutes, no tools required.

Ice & Water filter
1. Opened filter compartment cover
2. Removed old filter, drained into sink and placed in the trash.
3. Installed new filter
4. Bled the water line with ice water tap button (be aware when the air in the line exits the spigot, it create a lot of spray and you may need to cleanup the water that splash out of the bottom of the container used to capture the water during the bleeding process.)
5. Close the filter cover and refrigerator door.
6. Total time about 10 minutes and no tools required.
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Ice Build-up in freezer
67 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dave from San Diego, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
We have a bottom freezer refridgerator that kept having ice build-up in the freezer. We thought it was being caused by people (kids) not fully closing the freezer door. The ice build-up was really thick especially behind the rear cover. i defrosted the freezer about 3 times and it kept happening. We replace the timer (PS2065577) and h ave not had a problem since. The timer is actually in the refridgerator compartment , but controls the defrost cycle in the freezer.
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refrigerator not cold but freezer was cold
65 of 81 people found this instruction helpful.
  • jarrett from PALM DESERT, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
removed ice maker and wire shelf. removed back panel screws and tilted forward. removed 2 screws holding motor bracket. swapped fan blade and reassembled
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Freezer cold, refrigerator warm
58 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Encinitas, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
For the timer, I removed the upper light panel in the refrigerator with a screwdriver and the defrost timer is just plugged in. Easy fix, however most websites were saying it was located down by the kickplate. The thermostat was I think was te real culprit of my problem. I removed the back plate of the freezer after removing the pullout d rawers. It just took four screws. The vent/grill just pops out if squeeze it to one side and slide out the other. Then swivel out door. Note that I do not have the ice maker installed in mine so yours may have a another step. I unplugged the refrigerator at this point and grabbed my blow dryer. I melted all the ice that had formed on condenser. The thermostat is located to the right of the fan. Unclip old thermostat and snip wires with enough slack to attach new one. Attach with wire nuts, reclip and start moving in reverse back to the beginning. 7days and no problems!
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no cold air coming into refrigerator area, all frozen up
65 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mark from destin, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
first I looked into the refrigerator for blockage of air flow.
none found, I looked into the freezer area to see if fan was working ,it was, noticed ice built up on the outside of the metal cover letting me know it was not defrosting ,It was easier for myself to pull freezer door off , then the ice-maker,only three 1/4" hex head bol ts,two 1/4" hex bolts only holding the metal cover . The quickest way to defrost was using a blow hair drier .once it was all defrosted I disconnected the defrost heater and using a volt/ohm meter,I ohm out the element,finding out I had no reading .The one thing I forgot to mention, unplug the frigertor first !!!
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Leak at fill tube
59 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Yarmouth, ME
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed two screws that held cover plate. remove cover plate. Remove water hose, and clamp, by compressing clamp with pliers. Remove fill tube by pulling HARD, from back.

Replace fill tube, check to be sure that it entered ice maker properly. Replace hose and clamp.
Replace cover and screws.
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All Instructions for the KBRA20
16 - 30 of 1632