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Halogen oven light burned out. When trying to remove old bulb, it broke off.
First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.
The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gently inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.
Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!
The most difficult part was to remove leads from the old switch. I had to use long nose pliers. One by one I connected it to the new switch to prevent the wrong connection. After I removed the front cover, there was a lot of dirt, which I cleaned first and after replacing the switch and reinstalled the cover, I used the white DAP caulking to prevent the cumulation of any impurities inside. Now the range works like new again!
Center part of the heating element failed. (Broken, not burned)
Cut all power to the range. Easy to remove front panel and then screws and nuts that hold both white frame and glass top to range. Once the top can be lifted, cut the plastic zip tie that retains the harness. Unplug the harness and then remove the top. make provision for new zip tie before the range top is re-installed. The range top is to be inverted for installing clips to the new heating element. Make sure that the holes line up to the pointed clips that hold the element. Not required to move the range.
Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.
First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.
Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.
RE: 2 yr. old GE double wall oven with convection option in upper oven, non-convection in lower oven: baked goods were not browning, were undercooked or burned. Tested both ovens on regular bake setting using 2 oven thermometers. Set ovens for 350. Although after 10 min both ovens beeped "ready", the oven thermometers actually read 200 - then would swing up as high as 500 and as low as 200 during the 20 min test period. Decided to first replace top oven sensor only, just in case it really was a more expensive control panel problem. It was a bit awkward to reach back there with the oven door in the way, but I have long arms! Aimed my flashlight, removed nuts with a socket wrench, pulled out the sensor, popped the clip and the old sensor easily separated from its connection. Snapped on the new sensor, pushed it back in and reset the nuts. Easy. Set the oven for 350 and tested again with 2 oven thermometers for 45 min. Voila! The oven thermometers read exactly 350 when the oven beeped "ready" and it stayed at 350 throughout the entire 45 min retest period with only a 3 degree variation both up and down. What a great improvement! Immediately went online to Parts Select and ordered another sensor for the bottom oven which was having the same problem. Fixed both ovens all for under $30 - and just in time for Christmas cookies! Don't want to know what the repair guy would have charged.......Merry Christmas!
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
The control knob on the burner stopped allowing you to adjust temperature and would on turn the burner off when turning counter clockwise
I turned off the breaker, removed the control knobs from all of the burners there are plastic knots on each control knob that needs to be removed (once loosened they can easily be turned by hand). You can then just lift the out piece off. You need to remove 4 knots to release the control panel so you can access the control know. I removed the 2 screws in the old control know, there are 4 wires that need to be pulled to disconnect. I wrote down the order in which the colored wires were connected . I then removed the old part and reversed the process
