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JS750SF1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions
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Plastic guide Broken
9 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
NICK from Vernon, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced Plastic Guides
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Broke the glass on our oven door due to cold water spilled while it was hot
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dagmar from WESTMINSTER, CO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
First of all, there are FOUR panes of glass on the oven door and two different sizes. Make sure you're ordering the right pane. We initially got the wrong one and had to return/reorder.
Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful whe ... Read more n putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.
For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.
We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.
Took door off hinges and set on table. Removed almost all screws. Two at the top are very long and almost spring loaded -- this was helpful whe ... Read more n putting it back together.
When removing the layers, keep track of what/where screws are placed. Some are star-hole-head, some are hex-head (socket). Work slowly and carefully so as not to break additional panes of glass. Leave plenty of room in your workspace to set items aside while you get to the innermost part of the door.
For this part #, it's deep in the door layers and surrounded by fiberglass. Wear gloves so you're not itchy later. This part acts as a double-pane with a narrow aluminum frame around the two pieces of glass. Be careful not to bend the frame when removing the broken piece. One corner of the frame also has a hook-n-hole closure. Take care to not bend the hook too much.
We wiped all the glass pieces off to get all fingerprints, smudges, and baked-on foods removed. Then we put the pieces/parts back -- a lot like a puzzle. Had the oven back up and running with no problems. It may take two people to get the door back on the hinges just because of the weight and awkward position they need to clamp back together.
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Back burner was not working.
2 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Vilas from HANOVER TWP, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers
Took top of stove off, disconnected the heating element, re-installed the new element and now my stove works fine.
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Light bulb went out,could not find replacement part.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Gregory from Pearl River, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Turn the glass enclosure counterclockwise to expose bulb.Turn the power off at circuit breaker panel.Handle the bulb carefully with paper towel covering the bulb.Push the bulb in socket.replace glass enclosure,turn power back on.
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Oven will not heat
1 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Homosassa, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low c
... Read more
urrent igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
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one leg of the terminal block was loose and overheated under load.the terminal block melted and could have caused a fire.
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brendan from lebanon, NH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections per
... Read more
iodically as to avoid another situation like this .
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oven temp. was not what setting called for
-
John from Acme, WA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
turned oven off, pulled oven out from wall, removed back of oven, unscrewed sensor from oven replaced with new sensor, put back on, turned power to oven on, tried oven at 425, my temp. gage and the oven temp matched. a very easy fix.
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Plastic slide for storage drawer broken.
-
James from Stuart, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took part out of package, looked at instructions and followed them. Required a screwdriver to screw part on to the drawer.
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Our bottom drawer support broke and the bottom drawer was canted
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Robert from Woodinville, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw
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Oven temperature was low when reading was correct
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Orion from Vancouver, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
First of all, the sensor had the proper ohm reading...at ambient temperatures. I suspected the sensor because it would jump in large degree increments over 200°F. From what I read online, the only other part that would cause this was a faulty circuit board. I opted to try the $20 part first vs. the $200 part. It worked. One screw on the b
... Read more
ack top of the inside is all that holds the sensor in. Pull the wires out and you will find a quick-disconnect. New part had the same connector (thank you). Thread the wires back through the hole and replace the screw. Works like a champion (verified with an independent thermometer. That is all she wrote. I only wish I purchased two, since they don't last that long... 4 years...or so. I just bought the house built in 2007 and empty for a year... and it took 45 minutes to cook a pizza, and even then the bottom dough was light. A house without an oven is like a hot dog without mustard!
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Hard to move drawer in and out because the rear drawer supports broke off.
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Steven from Lansdale, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.
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Stove drawer rear guides broken
-
Robert from Shakopee, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Installed new guides with a nut driver without any problems.
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Range lower drawer would not stay on track.
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Richard from Newark, DE
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Easy to install replacement parts using the screws provided.
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Broken drawer support
-
Mario from Deer Park, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Followed the example picture on the part bag. Anyone could do this, incredibly easy. Took about 4 minutes to install both sides.
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rear drawer supports broke
-
TERRY from RICHMOND, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.
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