JDS28CKC General Electric Range - Instructions

This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me ... Read more to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.

I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the ... Read more “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ... Read more ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!

Replaced

Just like everyone else it was a simple r&r. However, when removing or installing wire clips I make it a habit to hold the ends with needle nose to prevent any: "snap!" ooops! However to prevent burning the element in the first place, it is strongly suggested to push that broil button twice so that it is set to low temp. It is too easy ... Read more to use the high setting which will shorten the elements life by 40 - 60 %. Also, keep the oven door partially open when using the broiler. Like the manual tells you!!!

After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th ... Read more e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.

e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) Then I simply re-connected the replacement element and viola!

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

Replaced old with new.

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t ... Read more he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

Turned off the oven power at the breaker. Removed the oven door by opening it all the way down. Flip the two metal tabs, one on each side, so the door releases. I used a flathead screwdriver to do it. Close door almost all the way and lift up to remove. Once the door is removed, there are two screws in the back of the oven connected to th ... Read more e heating element. Unscrew both screws. Gently pull out the heating element from the back wall. There are two terminals connected to wire clips holding the wiring in the back. disconnect, both terminals from the wire clips. Be careful not to pull on the wire or pull out from the wall too far. Connect to the new heating element to the same wire clips gently push it back into the wall reattached the two screws, reattached the door and turn on the breaker and test the heating element. I used YouTube to figure out how to disconnect and reconnect the door so that is an option.

Turne off power to range..pulled oven out..Took top back panel off with nut driver. 4screws .. Took picture of control board....removed bad control board with Phillips driver...4 screws....installed New board...removed 1 connection at a time and replaced in New board..Turned power on to test new board...check picture to make sure connect ... Read more ions are correct...turn off power...put back panel back on...put range back in place...turn power back o n...done ..approximate time 15 to 20 minutes..

Unplug stove from its wall outlet. Remove two screws securing rear panel. Pull off knob to Burner control which was damaged when surface
heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob.
When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the ... Read more new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.