JDP39DN4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

followed video exactly

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove t ... Read more he swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)

I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the ... Read more “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!

This electric stove has a lift up top which I lifted to get at the block and follow the wire back to the terminal at the back of the the stove. I removed the 5 small lag screws holding the back in place, removed the backing followed the wires back to where they connected in the Stove On/Off Control, disconnected the two wires from the co ... Read more ntrol and then laid the new part in place rethreading and reconnecting the wires. I reinstalled the block and ran a test to ensure the burner operated correctly. After successful testing I disconnect the old block holder by removing the small lag screw, replace it with a new one that came with the replacement terminal block. I then inserted the block into the new holder carefully rolled up the excess wire and wrapped it in a couple of places with electrical tape and also secured it to the side of the stove, out of the way of operation with electrical tape, put the top down, plugged it back in and put it back in place. All told the repair took about 40 minutes. I was impressed with the speed of delivery, the quality of the product, the instructions for installation and the added bonus of getting a terminal block holder as part of the repair kit! Thank You for making me look like a genius!

Replaced

pull out stove, unbolt old temp sensor inside stove with 1/4 nutdriver, go to back of stove and take off cover and unhook sensor and hook up new one, put all back together and slide stove back in place.

Disconnected the old socket ( 2 srews ) removed the two wires from the old socket, reconnected them to the new socket and reinstalled the lamp.

First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches. I removed the sensor and disconnected the connector.

After removing power from the range, I pulled the unit out for better access to the rear. I carefully pulled all four knobs off the front of the control panel. Next, using a short phillips screwdriver, I removed two screws from the front bottom of the control panel. On the rear of the control panel, there are four screws to loosen, now th ... Read more e whole panel is free to remove toward the front of the unit. The burner switches are held onto the panel with two screws that are located on the front under where the knob had been. The wires are all connected to the switch with crimp type connectors. These are on tight, but can be removed carefully with pliers. Before doing so, I took a picture on my phone to ensure I replaced the wires in the correct order. Everything goes back together in reverse order. This is a good time to clean behind and under the whole stove. The whole process took around 20 minutes.

Watched video

unscrew the terminal block,pulled the old wires out,installed the new wires installed the new block

Replaced old with new.

I removed the 4 hex head screws holding the control panel , then the other 4 slotted screws. Disconnected all wires being careful to keep track of the color coding. Had a little trouble with the adhesive holding the face plate( I don't know why they even used it). Put the new panel in and reconnected it. Re set circuit breaker and tried t ... Read more he oven. It still wouldn't heat. it wasn't the control panel, but a burned out wire connecting the element in the back of the oven. Well, anyway I learned how to do the job and the the new panel activates better, so all was not lost.

First turn off the breaker, and test with my milti meter. Raise the top panel where the coils are and prop it open high enough to use a screwdriver to open the front panel.
Then unscrew the three screws on the inside of the top panel, then open the oven door and you will see 4 screws across the bottom of thefront control board panel ... Read more and two more on each side of the sides of the panel facing straight up. Unscrew those 6 screws and then pull the front control panel forward and out. You might need something or someone to hold the panel, I just let the wires hold the weight, but not highly recommend. Then pull the switch knob off and behind it there are two little bitty screws that hold the switch in place. Unscrew them and pull the switch out of its place. I put the new switch close to the old one and just used the needle nose pliers to unplug one wire at a time and plug it in on the same place as the old one.
Then screw the itty bitty screws in the front that hold the switch in place and put tbe knob back on. Reposition the front panel back into place abs screw in the 9 screws removed for disassembly. Now would be a good time to clean under the burner panel if you haven’t done so yet ( it gets pretty nasty under there). Then put your burner top back down into place and turn your breaker back on. You can either test with your multi meter or like I did, just put the burner on high and watct the coils glow. Such a beautiful sight. Easy fix.

I carefully removed the burners, removed the bowls and replaced them with the new ones. Easy as pie!