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JDP39DN4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JDP39DN4WW
31 - 45 of 240

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back burner not getting hot
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Shenandoah, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$
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Oven not getting to temperature
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from MIDDLETON, WI
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Very simple. Remove one screw and carefully pull the sensor until you see the connection point. Remove the old one and snap the new one in and guide the wire back and reassemble the screw. Be sure to remove the oven door for easy access.
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Replace stove top burners (3 total)
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Bonifay, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.
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Cooktop oil fire melted plastic parts; control defaced
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Gaston, OR
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Some of the original TO-9 switches were fused by the heat. I made them functional again with a cutter on a rotary tool, but to make the repair properly, I ordered the new control unit and the faceplate graphics. Note the guide tabs at the bottom and right edges when replacing the graphics. Don't plan on reusing your old graphics (unless y ou are a wizard at removing the very strong adhesive).
To gain access to the part, remove the 2 screws (part 715) in the bottom of the control assembly with a stubby screwdriver. Using a nut driver, remove the two screws (part 1000) on the back at the corners, being careful not to drop them behind the oven. Pull out at the bottom, then move the whole unit toward you. Note the position of the wires. A digital photo can help here. Remove the wiring and 4 screws holding the clear plastic TO-9. Put the screws in the new unit in the same holes and rewire. Put the assembly in place top-first and align the screw holes. Finding the same thread placement for the lower screws can be tricky, so start them gently.
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Burner not working
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roy from Richmond, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Pulled out old burner; pushed in new burner. Piece of cake.
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Oven light did not work
9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from Rio Vista, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.
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switch went to high setting no matter what the setting was
10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Glen Cove, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..
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Wife broke the interior window by splashing water on it while heated to 450.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dennis from GRETNA, NE
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Well I did it all wrong from the get go. I did finally do a search on how to replace it and then it was quite easy. Learn from me, watch video and save yourself tons of hassle.
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Red Light On
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from DECATUR, AL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
Red Light Off
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Front right burner would obtain the right heat setting.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John H. from JACKSONVILLE, NC
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.
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Light not working tried to Remove light assembly not knowing glass could screw out. Without thinking grounded exposed hot wire to burner bracket melting light socket connector. Had to replace socket.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from CUMMING, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
First and most important trun off curcit breaker. Use 1/4 inch but driver to remove socket (2) screws. Remove ground and hot wire clips from old socket, replace on new socket. Screw back into oven ceiling and turn on power. Reset clock and your are done. Very simple.
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When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from CEDARVILLE, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
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8" element shorted out
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Highlands, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replac ed wired new on with the two screws.
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8 inch burner would not work on lower settings
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melvin J. from Waldport, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7 . unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.
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the temp was not accurate
7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from new harmony, UT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
had to remove the oven from the wall. once i realized that i had to take the side wall brackets off before removing the oven it was quite easy. then just had to remove oven door and slide the unit onto a chair while replacing the sensor. put it all back in and the wife was so happy to have her oven back she made me a batch of brownies. yu m.
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All Instructions for the JDP39DN4WW
31 - 45 of 240