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JCBS650SV1SS General Electric Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
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Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
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burner control
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hugh from sun city center, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
installed new burner control w/knob. about 30 min. stove back in place. working fine
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Open Switch
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John from Denham Springs, LA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pull knob. Pull wires. Pull two screws. Replace switch
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The middle of the element quit working.
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Ruth Ann from New Columbia, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took the old burner out, tranferred the wires from old to new. Installed the new burner. Works fine.
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Replacment of burner control switches
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Judith from Keezletown, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!
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Blew the electronic Control Board
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PETE from MANCHACA, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
It was easy to replace it. Just remove the screws and unplug each wire and plug them back. The problem was to take off the plate cover that has the printed letters on. The plate cover cost more than the Electronic Control Board.
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Getting the right stove model number and part number
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Gerald from San Diego, CA
- Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With
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help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.
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oven control panel was blacked out..no clock no start.
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Pam from Daphne, AL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took out the old control module and removed the sticker and reattached sticker to new part and installed the plugs, put the screws back in and it started working, thankyou so much.
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broken light socket
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James from Monterey, TN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.
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Mother board was blown
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Kenneth from Bradenton, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Purchased the board installed it and saved about 130 dollars.
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Bottom Heating Element not heating up.
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Wallace from Demorest,, GA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I miss diagnosed the situation at first. When the top element only heated up I thought the control was the problem. Wrong. Apparently both elements heat up during initial start up. It turned out that the bottom element was not working so it needed to be replaced rather then the control. Now both are replaced and the oven is now back
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to original status. Entire repair cost about $80. I saved over $100 by attempting this myself. Easy fix. Obviously I am not a pro. My local hardware store had a generic heating element that worked just fine and only cost $22. Two screws to repair after removing the back panel. Remember to pull the plug before you begin and after the repair put all panels back on before plugging back in. Pizza anyone?
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