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JCBP71SM2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP71SM2SS
61 - 75 of 385

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Original terminal block plastic shielding melted, protecting appliance when the wires overheated.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from DOVER, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.
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Glass- top range had two burners that would not regulate. Burners went to HIGH when dial was set on any setting, even low.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • christopher from WOODSTOCK, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced switches. Dual power switch had been updated and didn’t match original part but there were accurate instructions in package to allow correct wiring easily.
Good job Parts Select.
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Baking element cut on fire
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Hedayat from LONGWOOD, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
In this case I had to pull the range out to disconnect the power and also to remove the plate covering the electrical connectors. This was the only way to reconnect the elements terminals since the wires were too short to do it inside the oven. Undo the 2 screws holding the element in place from inside the oven to remove and install the n ew one before connecting the terminals from the back. Put back the rear cover and reconnect the power.
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Old coil burned out
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Cynthiana, KY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
After reading all the repair stories I knew that their wasn't any extra wire when the old element is removed. Well, even with that knowlage one of the wires came loose and slipped back in. Fortunately I was able to remove a panel in back and push it back through. I was afraid I would have to take off the whole back but instead there is a panel covering the wire running down the center of the oven. After removing 5 screws with the same nut driver as the one for the coils I had it done in minutes. I had no problem and I am NOT a 'do it yourselfer'. Oh, did I mention I ordered the part on Friday and received it on Saturday standard shipping? Pays to live the next state over from the place shipping it.
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The bake element burned out. The gasket was dirty and not working well.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from WATKINSVILLE, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replacing the gasket is easy and requires no tools. Pull out the ends that are just inserted in their slots. Then work your way around the door pulling out the little metal clips from their holes. Replace the new gasket the same way.

It's even easier to do if you remove the door first and place it on a table--but it's heavy. To remove the door, flip up the hinge clips--you might need a flat screwdriver to do this if they are old and stiff as mine were. Then close the door almost all the way--you'll feel a stopping point-- and pull up. It comes right out--but again, it's heavy.

Replacing the bake element is not much harder. It's easier to do with the door off, but not impossible with the door on. First, pull out the range and unplug it. Then, remove the hex screws holding the bake element against the back wall. The element has two electrical contacts that insert into clips at the ends of wires. Pull out the wires a bit to give yourself some slack, then pull the contacts out of the clips. Insert the clips from the new element into the wires and replace the screws.

If the wires get lost behind the back wall of the oven, it's not a big deal. Just remove the narrow central panel on the back (it has six hex screws) and push the wires back through the wall opening. Then replace the back panel and install the new element.
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Inside burner did not heat
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roberto L from LAUREL, MD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one
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Oven in accurate temp too low.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from LIBERTY HILL, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.
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When inspecting the back of my oven I noticed the cable had been pushed under (my guess from the mouse I found electrocuted where the power lines come in) and was touching one of the element prongs which burned the covering.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Bolton, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.
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12" Haliant Element would only work on the outer ring.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from RICHMOND, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Watched repair videos on YouTube to prepare. The repair was very easy.
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burner inside element not working
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from BURLINGTON, MA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next
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Burned out oven element
6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeremy from Savoy, IL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I unscrewed and removed the old element from inside the oven, but unfortunately there wasn't enough extra wire to pull through and attach the new element from the front, so I had to move the oven away from the wall, remove the back panel, and connect the new element from the rear. Very self-explanatory.

The new element had som e kind of spray or coating on it that caused some smoke for a few minutes, but then it worked fine.
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GE oven showed "F2" error code and was over-heating
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kyle from AURORA, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.
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Shorted the control panel changing bulb without shutting off power dumbass
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from BELLINGHAM, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced control panel after removing original control panel facing with heat gun and Wala
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Oven control panel shorted while remove a broken lightbulb from the oven
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from SEATTLE, WA
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
I removed the new control panel from its packaging and noticed that the button overlay was not included. I grabbed a putty knife and carefully loosened the adhesive on the old panel and was able to apply it to the new control panel. After installing it I looked up the number of my old panel on the included paperwork and simply entered the “profile” number after powering up the new one and It worked perfectly. I was very relieved to not have to buy a new range!
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Oven Wouldn't Heat
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Yuma, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced
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All Instructions for the JCBP71SM2SS
61 - 75 of 385