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JCBP71SM2SS General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JCBP71SM2SS
16 - 30 of 385

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Yje electronic control panel was shorted out. I orderd a new one and in a timely mannor your service delivered the part via Fed Ex.
28 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gary from Wichita, KS
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
The repair was simple. All wires were color coded and the new part had the same color codes marked. Simply unplugged the wires from the bad part and plugged them into the new part a reinstalled the part to the back panel of the range.
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Don't clean your oven with the racks still in, takes the finish off!!!!
22 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Apison, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Took old racks out, slid new ones in....exact match at a huge savings from what GE wanted per rack.
Found the company through a Google search, have it bookmarked and will be back if I need something from them.
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Baking (Lower) element burnt out
23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Andrew from Northport, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Unplugged unit. Removed racks from oven. Removed screws from bracket holding element in. Carefully pulled element forward until the wire connections were exposed. Removed wires taking care not to let them retract into the oven. Removed element from oven. Placed new element in oven. Connected wires to element. Replaced screws to hol d element in. Replaced racks. Plugged in oven. Turned on to see if working.
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Broken interior glass of oven door
22 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Frisco, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.
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Oven Overheating upto 200 degrees!!
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from Greenfield, IN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Replaced temperature sensor in the oven first ($10 part, always start with least expensive possibility!), but that didn't solve the problem. 5-10 minute repair, not counting moving the range in and out of it's home between cabinets. Next replaced the control board ($90 part) which solved the overheating problem. 15 to 30 minute repair, don't be intimidated by all the wires. Remember to turn off power at the breaker (duh). Order the faceplate graphic ($37 part) because chances are the old one won't peel off cleanly (ours didn't, "I was really careful Honey!!) and the otherwise excellent PartSelect.com website doesn't suggest the part might be needed. Anyway, I saved a minimum of $80 plus Labor by doing it myself. I had the advantage of living about 100 miles from their warehouse and got NEXT DAY delivery from FedEx instead of 3-5 business days. Suggest you order before noon.
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large portion of my duel heat burner went bad
19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • matthew from waterford, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
easily lifted the top of the stove after removing two small screws in front of the stove.removed screws holding burner in place , disconnected some wires and replaced burner. be sure to turn off the power before beginning this project
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oven would not heat; temperature sensor failed; needed replacement
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roger from MARIETTA, GA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
Replacing the sensor was a snap and not as involved as I feared. 1) open the oven door; 2) remove the one hex screw holding the old sensor to the back of the oven; 3) gently pull the sensor, pulling the wiring out to access the plastic wire connector (carefully guide the plastic wire connector through the opening); 4) loop a small piece of wire (stiff enough to form a hook) around the base of the wire connector to keep the wire from falling into the back wall of the oven; 5) unclip the connector and remove the bad sensor; 6) clip in the new sensor; 7) remove your catch wire; 8) thread the wiring back through the opening; 9)position the new sensor and secure with the hex screw; and 10) turn on the oven and prove to your wife you do know what you are doing!
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Baking Heating Element Cracked and Burnt out
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Holiday, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Pulled the oven out of it's location. Disconnected the power cord from the Electrical Outlet. Removed the Protective back plate (from the rear of the oven) which covers the wiring. Disconnected the two leads that connect the Baking Element. Went to the front of the Oven, opened the oven door, removed the two screws with a socket wrench (y ou can use a screw driver as well), at this point you can replace the element with the new one and secure with the two screws. I then went back to the rear of the oven and reconnected the two wires back onto the new heating element and replaced the wiring protective back plate. Reconnected the power cord to the electrical outlet and turned on the oven to see if the element heats up. AND IT DID. Moved oven back into it's original location and I was done. This took 16 minutes to do and saved me a nice amount of money. I could have had a service person show up and do this work which would have cost me $189.00 (Parts & Labor) to have done and all I spent , by ordering the part from PARTSELECT.COM, was just under $50.00.
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Oven wouldn't heat
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Hilton Head, SC
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Remove upper rear cover (4 hex screws), then I removed the 4 phillips screws that mount the control panel, I memorized the wire positions (easy since they are color coded) unplug the wires and remove the old control panel. The face plate of the control panel did not come off easily and the adhesive pulled off some of the white paint, lea ving an unsightly clear edge. So I used white-out, and painted the areas where the finish had pulled off. It worked beautifully, and the color match is perfect. Then I reapplied the face plate, put the new control panel in position, connected wires, screwed screws, repositioned rear cover, screwed screws, plugged it in and it was done. The longest pare of the job was waiting for the white-out to dry.
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Oven door gasket needed replacement
21 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JUDITH from DANVILLE, NH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Replacement was extremely easy. The new part fit perfectly and installed very easily without tools. Also, I received the part within a few days
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The heating element for our GE oven cracked
20 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Arlington, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I (1) pulled the oven away from the wall to get the back of it exposed. Then I (2) pulled the plug out to make sure there was no electrical current. Then I (3) opened the oven door and tugged on the broken heating element to see how tightly it was connected in the back of the oven. Next I (4) went to the back again and slid the silver-c olored metal cover that protected the exposed electrical wiring for the oven. I (5) observed that there were a number of different colored wires held in place by screws as well as some wires that disappeared into the insulation, so I (6) went back to the front of the oven and pushed the broken heating element backward to determine if its wiring would become visible from the back of the stove. I (7) observed from teh back that it did. From that point, I (8) pulled the heating element's wiring connections through the insulation until it was visible. The I (9) unscrewed the two nuts connecting the heating element to the oven's wiring. Then I (10) went back to the front and pulled the broken heating element out and (11)inserted the new heating element. Then I (12) returned to the back and connected the loose wires to the heating element and (13) pushed the heating element forward into the oven. I (14) went around to the front to ensure the heating element was positioned the same way in the oven as the old one was, then in the back (15) replaced the metal shield over the wiring and isulation, (16) plugged the oven back in and (17) turned the oven baking setting on to a high temperature to test the new element (i.e., that it was connected correctly and actually worked). I (18) observed that the oven began heating up quickly to the proper temperature, and I was greateful the new bake element worked as good the original part. I then (19) turned the oven off and pushed it all the way back to its place against the wall.

The repair job was not effortless (about 15-20 minutes) but was simple enough NOT to require an electrician. The most difficult part was physically sliding the stove out and back into its tight place between our counters.
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Left front burner not working hot surface light stayed on
14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from ERIE, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Shut off power at breaker panel Took screws out of front of range top lifted it up propped open unplugged wires took off two clips holding burner in place hardest part of job checked wire colors to right places put clips back on pulled out light right next to burner replaced put top down replaced 3 screws turned peer back on hood to go
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The Bake Element
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Fee Fee McLean-Ebanks from Sarasota, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
I order the part online on the 23rd of February 09 in the afternoon it was delivered on the 24th to the address in Florida and then fedex to me in Cayman. So I got it on the 2nd of March went home that evening after work got my pliers unpluged the stove removed the two screws that holds the element in place. I also removed the metal from the back of the unit first to make sure I was doing it right. I then pulled the element at the back and disconnected the two wires replacing it with the new one. I then replaced the back and screws and pluged it in turned on the oven waited and when I saw it turn red I felt so good. I said thank you Lord and then baked a cake. The whole installation took about 20 mins.
Thanks again.
P.S. please look into offering shipping orders overseas.
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Actual temperature in oven was not consistent with the temperature setting
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Martha from WILMINGTON, OH
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Socket set
I am a 69 year old woman. I watched the Repair Clinic YouTube Video before I started. I then pulled stove away from wall and unplugged it. Took off oven door and removed the top oven rack. Loosened and removed the screw holding the temperature sensor located inside at the top center back wall of the oven. Pulled the sensor through th e opening until the plastic plug came through. Unplugged and removed it and plugged in the new sensor. Fished it back through the opening. Replaced the bracket to the back wall of the oven and tightened the screw. Replaced the oven rack and stove door. Plugged it back in and moved it back into place. I turned on the oven and let is heat for over 30 minutes and the internal temperature was correct with the setting.
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rear supports were broken
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • TED from herndon, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The draw pictorial was not very clear. I orderd the two rear supports for the over storage draw, not sure they were correct.
They were correct and the design had been upgraded to add strength to the support.
The draw is now operational..better then ever.
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All Instructions for the JCBP71SM2SS
16 - 30 of 385