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JBV42G1H2 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JBV42G1H2
91 - 105 of 134

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Burned out terminal block
  • ronald from YarmouthPort, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Hi, Very simple fix.Take out 1 screw & clip wire with snips. Put wires from new unit together & screw on wire nuts. Put shrink tubes on & heat with liter till it shrinks to what you want. A $15.00 fix is better than a $500.00 stove. FIRST STEP TURN OFF THE BREAKER & YOU ARE GOOD TO GO!!!!! Ron
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Several burners quit working
  • John from Anchorage, AK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Had one burner that was completely out as the old terminal block had a broken contact. The other burner was intermittent and would arc when heating up. There are several slightly different size terminal blocks. I had a hard time re-inserting one of the old burners into the new terminal block but got it to seat. I put a new burner with the new block on the other one and it fit much better. Additional tools used were a wire stripper and a heat gun for the heat shrink. The stove works great now.
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rht. front element would not heat properly
  • Rod from Huron, OH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I read parts select instructions and i was done in less than 30 minutes. Since 1988, this is the 1st. part that I had to replace. I now have parts select on my favorites list.
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electric burner would not heat up
  • Thomas from Wildwood Crest, NJ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled out the 8 inch surface element and then used a 1/4 inch socket to remove mounting screw for terminal block and pulled out block with attached wires as far as wires would permit. My range top does not lift up so I had to work thru surface opening but there was at least 10 inches of wire to pull out so it was not a problem. Cut exi sting wires at block, stripped 1/2 inch of insulation using my wire stripper pliers and wrapped wire ends of new terminal block and secured with wire nuts provided. Slipped on shrink insulation provided and applied flame from a hand held butane lighter. The instructional video on the web site was a great help. I may not have done repair without first watchng how easy it is. A cheap wire stripper is a great help. This supplier made it easy to select parts with fast delivery and complete the repair. Great source of appliance parts.
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element heat wouldn vary
  • Leonard from Winter, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
slid the range away from wall. disconnect power. removed back,compared switches and marked wires.installed new switch and wires.the adapter for the control knob was a problem it left the knob out futher than original i had to modify the plastic adapter and got it close enought! the most time spent was cleaning up the floor before putting the range back.
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Replace terminal block
  • FRED from Kenner, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Simple repair. Easy to do. It was disappointing to receive replacement parts which were not ceramic terminals as depicted and described in words, but plastic and therefore will need to be replaced again soon. In addition the shrink tube was not large enough in diameter to cover the wire nut, both of which were provided with the replaceme nt terminal. Part # PS232646 is not ceramic, but plastic which does not fair well in high heat applications.
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Plastic Insert for knob to long, had to use my bench grinder to cut it down
  • Floyd from Warren, OR
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
(Turn off the Power) Pull stove out, remove the 2 screws that holds switch in place, remove one wire at a time and install on new switch. Slip switch in replace 2 screws. Snap off about 3/4 of the shaft cut down plastic insert for knob, install knob turn on power and it works.
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Contact Burnout Inside Terminal Block
  • JAMES from STATE COLLEGE, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull out oven/range unit. Lift range top all the way up. Remove old terminal block. Make electrical connections using supplied wire nuts & heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink. Replace range top. Install coil burner & burner pan as unit. Done.
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Burner constantly heated
  • Clifford from New smyrna beach, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Good directions
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R had ight front control made loud noise when contacts opened.
  • James from Nashville, AR
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This is twin oven range with controls at side of upper oven. Control panel was fastened with screws at top and bottom. Range has built-in hood at top which had to be disassembled to reach top screw. Once had access to top screw, eaisly removed control panel and replaced control. New control had identical connections as old control so only had to install it, break shaft to correct length, and use proper shaft adapter for knob. Remounted control panel and range worked perfectly. This would have been a very quick job except for having to deal with the built-in range hood.
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Mechanical clock stopped advancing; replace with newer digital clock
  • Pierre from Pleasanton, CA
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
1) Took photo of original wiring behind original clock. 2) Marked up wiring instructions for new clock with wire colors. 3) Marked wire colors next to posts on new clock. 4) Removed old clock and its metal mounting bracket. 5) Installed new clock onto old mounting bracket.PROBLEM: The holes in the glass facade of oven are shifted abo ut 1/4" off from the pushbuttons on the new clock. 6) Remove bracket and enlarged holes by 1/4" sideways. This includes shifting the holes for the oven light pushbutton switches, and the four "racetrack" holes where the bracket attaches to the oven. Plug wires into new clock, using extender wires provided as needed. Labelled extender wires with their "colors". POWER UP. The clock works, and the "Timed Bake" works. However, the Self-Cleaning of the oven cannot be started, because the latch level cannot be moved to the right (locked ) position. This leaves us unsatisfied, as restoration of Self-Cleaning was the reason we decided to replace the oven clock.
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heating element not heating
  • Mirtes from Marlborough, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the terminal block. Cut the wires. Cut the sheathing to expose the wire. Connected the new wires with the old wires by twisting them together. Added the wire nut and reconnected the block. Tested ok.
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Scorched Element
  • Jilan from South Milwaukee, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
It wasn't so much the repair that was needed as how impressed I was with the fast delivery. Without a fourth burner & a holiday weekend coming up I was in desperate need of my element. I ordered it around 1:00 pm on a friday & it was delivered the next day before noon! Very impressed with the ease of ordering & receiving. Thanks again.
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element burnt out
  • Howard from Fort Bragg, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
changed element
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No Problems
  • Jerry from Copperas Cove, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I removes the old element and drip bowl, then replaced the drip bowl, then replaced with the new element. Approximatly 3 minutes. . .
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All Instructions for the JBV42G1H2
91 - 105 of 134