JBP95AT1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Unhooked electrical wiring from unit and rehooked new unit to electrical wiring.

This repair took between 15 and 30 minutes BUT ONLY because my 10 year old son did the repair. He couldn't wait for his father to come home from work. His only complaint was the tight fit to reach the back of the oven (he wanted to take the oven door off but I said no). He removed the 2 screws that held the element in place and then pu ... Read more lled it from the oven until he could remove the screws that held the wires in place. He was concerned that a little of the insulation came out with the wires, but this was no issue. The new element hooked right up (we figured out that we had to use the 2 new screws for the wires because the old ones did not fit very well). We used the same 'old' screws to attach the element back to the oven. Plugged the oven back in and it works fine. My son was so proud and I didn't have to help any more than shining a flashlight for him.

The heating element in the lower oven of my 18 year-old GE double oven broke into two pieces and would not heat. Because of the age of the oven, a replacement part was unavailable through GE. I came across PartSelect.com through an Internet search and ordered the part online. Total cost was $33.50, counting s/h. FedEx delivered the new ... Read more element less than 48 hours after I placed the order online.

IMPORTANT: FLIP the BREAKER to stop electricity from going to the oven. Replacing the heating element is a two step process: 1. Remove the old element. 2. Install the new element in its place. (NOTE: This job is much simpler if you lift and remove the oven door BEFORE you begin. NOTE also: There are no slots in the screws, so you must use a small socket wrench--not a screwdriver-- to remove the screws.) STEP 1: Two screws go through the small metal plate attached to the element prongs. These screws hold the element to the back oven wall. Remove the screws, then pull the element forward a few inches to gain access to two screws which hold the element prongs to wires that come through the back oven wall. (One wire and one screw for each of the two prongs.) Remove the two screws. Remove and discard the old element. STEP 2: Install the new element by doing Step 1 in reverse. Oven is now repaired! (It took more time to type these instruction than it took to repair the oven.)

This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.

I am not a handy person so I was really nervous about doing this. I first unplugged the oven just to be on the safe side. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Next I pulled the element forward and disconnected the two wires. After that I simply reconnected the two wires to the new element, pushed it back in an ... Read more d put the screws in. Piece of cake!

First I removed the 2 screws that held the bake element in place. Then I pulled the element out and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected the two wires to the new element and pushed it back in place and installed the unit again with the 2 screws. Turned the oven on and it heated up like it should.

Fan motor has to be removed from the rear. Since this is a (double) wall oven, the hardest part was sliding the oven out of the wall.

First, doors are removed, eight screws that hold the oven in place (along the side of the doorways) are removed. The rear panel inside the oven must be removed to expose the fan. Four screws hol ... Read more d that in place.
Next, slide out the oven. The fan is covered by a tin shroud which is easily removed with a nut driver. The blade of the fan (inside the oven) is held on by a reverse threaded nut which must be removed. The fan motor is mounted with three screws and has two wires plugged into it. Piece of cake.

Reverse the procedure and you're done.

The best part was that I had originally called a service guy, who was going to 'defer me to GE for the repair' because the oven had to come out of the wall!! I think I'm going into the repair business!

Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks

1) turned off breaker to oven
2) removed oven racks
3) removed screws holding old element
4) pulled out element far enough to remove 2 wires attached to old element
5) noted colors, left white, right black
6) attached new element to wires
7) attached new element to oven
8) put back oven racks
9) tur ... Read more n breaker back on
10) test oven
done

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires

This repair took much longer than it should have.
When I noticed the oven would not heat in bake mode, I suspected the element was bad. Going on the forum, I found that I needed to ohm out the element to be sure, so from inside the oven, I removed the two screws holding the element into the stove, pulled out the element a bit and re ... Read more moved the screws from each contact, ohmed it out and found no continuity. I ordered a new bake element which arrived in a couple of days.
I installed the new element by connecting the wires back to each terminal end. It still didn't work and not only that, the broil element didn't work now either.
I inquired again on the forum and found that the suspect might be the control module that controls both bake and broil elements. The part was $250.
Not wanting to spend that on a 10 year old stove, I ordered a new stove at Sears that was on sale.
I sent the bake element back and waited for my stove to arrive.
Sears called a few days later that my stove was ready for pickup so in preparation, I pulled my old stove out from the wall and began to disconnect the pigtail to use on the new one. It was then I noticed a wire dangling that seemed to go to one side of the bake element. When I pulled out the bake element initially and disconnected the wires, I didn't notice that one terminal had TWO wires going to it and one had a single wire connected. It was a bit dark inside the stove when I initially took the screw off of each terminal and I never noticed the second wire on the left one. I installed the old bake element, knowing it may not work but just to see if the broil now worked and it did!
So I ordered another bake element and installed it connecting two wires to the left terminal and one to the right terminal, reattached it to the back of the oven and IT WORKS!!

I cancelled my new stove at Sears which saved me about $500. Just a $26.00 part.

The only reason I mentioned "a bit difficult" is that it is very important to unplug the unit first. I didn't want to say easy because I didn't want someone just jumping right in, (you do end up handling raw wires).
First I removed the two screws that were holding in the element to the back wall of the oven, then pulled out the old ... Read more element slightly until you see where the wires are attached to the end of the element. I made note (I don't know if this is neccessary) which wire came off which screwset so I could put the new one in the same way. Took out the old element and attached the new one to the two screwsets on the ends of the element and then reinserted that part in in the back wall of the oven and attached plate that holds it in place. It was for my mother and she now thinks I'm a genius! Don't let anyone take a picture of you of you from behind because you definitely have to put your head in the oven. I believe the door is removable that may make it easier to get to it.

Turned off breaker to stove.Used nut driver to remove the holding plate from the back ove the oven. Their was between 4 to 6 inch of slack on the wire. Used the nut driver and removed the red wire from the right side of the old element, and then removed the white wire from the left side of the element. Replaced the cap head screws that re ... Read more quired a nut driver, with the slotted screws that came with the new element, replaced the white wire(left) the red wire(right), end reattached the holding plate to the back of the oven and done!
There are stand offs on the bottom of the element, so you can't get it confused on where the wires go, but take care that the wires do not slip back in the element "hole" or you will have to "fish" them back out.

Brought the element up slowly to 500 degrees, to burn off any residue on the element. Smelled a chemical smell for the first 5-10 seconds of the "burn in", then no smell.

After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, th ... Read more e new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!

First I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I pulled the element out about 2-3 inches and then removed the two screws that fastened to the ends of the element. Was careful to keep the same wires separate in order to fasten the new element back to the same two wires. When fastening the new element ends back to the wires, ... Read more care must be taken to not bend the ends of the element when tightening the small screws to the ends. Everything went real good and am most pleased with the very fast service portrayed by Parts Select. They are a class act company and rate very high in customer satisfaction!