J2S968BEKB General Electric Range - Instructions

I'm well past ninety and my sweet daughter inserted the tiny prongs. I was delighted to find a place that had the bulbs. Thank goodness for the internet ! (I'm not too old for that)

Use screwdriver to pull down tab on both hinges. Good hind on door and as you lower to full open door will come off. Pull old bottom, insert new bottom and put door back in slots. Close and then reopen to first position and push tabs back up to lock position

I checked various sites on the net and decided that the temperature sensor was the problem. The GE price for the replacement part was about $105, most of the other sites offered the sensor in the $70 range. PartSelect $12.95 When the part arrived, I removed a small self taping screw, pulled the high temperature wire connector into th ... Read more e oven space, disconnected the quick disconnect fitting, attached the new temperature sensor, pushed the connecting wire into its hole, replaced the screw and that was it. I probably saved about $200 in parts and labor over what a local repairman would have charged. Oh yes!! I first disconnected the power at the breaker box. Very important.

First I removed two screws holding head in place and carefully lifted assembly up using flat screwdriver. I separated old igniter from feed wire with gentle pull. I reversed assembly after cleaning old gasket residue. torque screws back in place after cleaning with small ss wire brsh in dremel tool. Tighten in steps to firm light touch. ... Read more I used new gashket and ignitor.

recieved part the next day. looked different but I followed instructions and the part worked perfect.

REMOVED 2 SCREWS AND LOWERED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. UNPLUGGED THE OLD ONE, AND REPLACED IT WITH THE ITEM SENT TO ME

1) Shut off power to oven
2) Removed oven door using snap down hinges on door
3) Removed 4-phillips head screws holding the oven frame to cabinets
4) Pulled oven out of cabinet and set it on stool in front of opening
5) Remove 2-hex screws holding metal shield covering the electrical wiring on back of oven
6) Unpl ... Read more ugged bad thermostat connector
7) Removed the single hex screw holding thermostat inside the oven
8) Pulled the thermostat and lead wire from oven
9) Fed the new thermostat wire into inside back of oven
10) Reverse steps 1-7

My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),r ... Read more ed] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens a ... Read more nd closes smoothly.

The thry was rusty I took the door out And i slide out the thry it's take five minutes I did it by myself now my oven Look like a new I'm so happy now I get the part quickly thank you

Sensor is in rear and on top ov oven. What could be a 10" job took 45". My problem was the oven door was diffinately in the way. Also I wear bifocals which makes me tilt head to see nuts. I felt like a contortionist. HINT: remove door and give yourself some room to work.

First, I turned off the power. I removed the fixture that held the bulb and gently used narrow type pliers to pull the old pins out and allowed the broken glass to fall upon a shop towel in the bottom of the oven.

The replacement bulb and different type of wiring connections. I cut and formed them to fit the receptacle. I gentl ... Read more y inserted the new bulb, placed the glass cover back on. Then, screwed the unit back into the top of the oven.

Happily, when power was turned back on the light shone brightly!

Circuit breaker off. Watched You Tube video to easily remove and set aside oven door, and shelves, unscrewed back wall cover over convection heating element, and slid out cover over floor heating element. Used ratchet to easily disconnect both old heating elements & pull from rear wall, holding onto two clip electrical connectors while ... Read more gently pulling out plenty of slack as wires fed through insulation material. Concern of "losing" wires back into oven wall not truly a problem if careful. Both sets of connectors pulled off, easily and then slid onto replacement elements without trouble. Circular convection element screwed back into place and cover replaced. Replacement floor element was similar, but not identical, to original. Wires connected fine, but base plate and two screw holes to attach to rear wall were of different size. It rests underneath oven lower cover on its own feet, so really didn't require support. Being DIY obsessive, I nonetheless used its base plate as template to drill two new holes in oven back, secured with old screws. Replaced cover, shelves, door, and woking like new!

Inserted the grate foot into the spot provided; after consulting the parts manuel to insure I was using the proper procedure.

I do use silicone to help hold the foot but it still won't hold

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.