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IFW7300WW02 Inglis Washer - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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replace the pump motor
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jay from MALVERN, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. R
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eplace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.
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Leaky inlet valve
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Bryan from AUSTIN, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the top cover of the washer, unclamped the intake hoses from the valves and unplugged their control wires, unscrewed the old valves and removed them from the case, screwed on the new valves, replugged the wires, reclamped the hoses, fastened the top back on.
Other Parts Used:
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The washer drain pump had to be replaced.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from ARMINGTON, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplugged the washer from electric outlet. Removed front cover by using nut driver to remove the two screws. Drained the water from the washer into a pan by loosening the cap on the filter. Removed the two hoses by compressing clamps with pliers. Unplugged the electric wire from old pump. Used screw driver to pry rubber feet of old pum
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p loose from washer floor panel. Set old pump aside. Installed new pump using a little dish soap to help attach rubber feet to washer. Attached the two hoses using pliers. Plugged electric wire into new unit. Ran washer to check for leaks. Replaced front cover using nut driver on the two screws.
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Drain pump on Whirlpool Duet washer (from 2008) gradually gave out. Needed replacement.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mike from ENOCH, UT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
There is a video on this site that shows how to do the install. It is perfect and accurate. This pump is one of the easiest components to fix on this washer and it will save you money to do it yourself. Tech has told me twice to buy a new washer. This did the job. Make sure to take the time to fully drain the machine prior to doing
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this and make sure that you unplug your machine. To drain, just unscrew the cover on the front of the pump. If you start disconnecting hoses without draining you could have a mess on your hands depending on how much water is still in the washer. Use a shallow pan or bucket if your machine is on a pedestal. I have a floor drain in front of mine so I use a piece of foil to channel the water into it. After that, just do the install like the video. Also make sure to examine the reconnected hoses after you get done to make sure that they are solidly attached to the pump and that the base of the pump is tightly secured to the bottom of the machine. You have to secure the feet of the pump from the bottom which is why the video recommends putting blocks under the washer to have access to the bottom. Pump is great. Everything works well.
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Baffle broke off
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sarah from WAKARUSA, IN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Matched up pronges and slid it on
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A simple fix
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from PEMBROKE PNES, FL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
After I received the part I removed the top panel of the washer. I then located the position of the old part. I proceeded to remove electrical connector and installed the new one which required no tools. Just to clear the water line, I blew into to it just to sure line is clear then reattached. That easy. Thanks Part Select.
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It didn't seem like the drum was spinning fast enough when washing a full load to wring all the water out of the clothes
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Agawam, MA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I basically just followed the directions in the Parts Select video. The only thing that was a little difficult was getting the new belt to feed onto the drum pulley, but after a couple of tries I was able to get it on. I'm glad the video mentioned this might be a little difficult or I might have thought I was doing something wrong.
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Washer hoses due for replacement
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from PINE MOUNTAIN, GA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.
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Counter weight flew apart
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mark from BENTON, AR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Socket set
Three 1/2 bolts tighten as required
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Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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william from VIRGINIA BCH, VA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" ... Read more into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" ... Read more into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
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Washer wouldn't fill!!! Water temp sensor with rubber seal replaced. Happy to say Washer up and running Thank You
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sue from N PROVIDENCE, RI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
very easy repair watched videos to diagnosed problem. Removed old sensor and rubber seal replaced with new.
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F9E1 error
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joel from SPEARFISH, SD
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced the pump. Continued to get the F9E1 error. Removed and cleaned the drain pipe between the drum and the pump. Problem resolved.
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Torn tub seal causing major water leak.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Matthew from MENTOR, OH
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your
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new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.
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Other Parts Used:
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Front loading washer is leaking
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michelle from WAREHAM, MA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).
Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and sli ... Read more t the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!
I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.
Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.
I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!
My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.
Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.
Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!
Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and sli ... Read more t the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!
I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.
Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.
I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!
My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.
Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.
Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!
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Drain pump stopped draining washer
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from HEBRON, IN
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplugged washer , used shop vac to drain water through drain hose on washer. Removed both hoses from old pump. Removed electric plug, removed 2 screws from bottom of the pump. Then reverse the process.
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