FWT449GFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The video was helpful and gave good ideas to look for, it was harder to reach the pins holding each end. I used a 6-8 inch dowel rod to remove and replace the plastic pins. First time always takes longer than advertised but I wasn't in a big hurry.

2 screws, 2 clamps. The part arrived in one day. It was exactly the correct part and installed easily. No issues, washer is working fine.

Removed retaining band around door boot and prized-off boot on left side to access door lock - simple screw driver replacement job. Deleted last error code. BUT - washer worked again for several days, and now code E43 is back and won't spin - problem is intermittent - so suspect it is NOT the door lock, but a wiring or control board problem. Ongoing.

Im the lady of the house,no problem ordering or installing...

Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.

You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!

I noticed that the bottom two screws of the washer tub were quite rusted and there was a leak around them.
I had to
1) Remove the top and rear panels,
2) Remove the detergent dispenser,
3) pull off the bellows from the front panel and disconnect it from the fill input,
4) remove the drive belt,
5) unbolt the drive motor and detach electrical and ground,
6) remove the pins from the top of the shock absorbers and push them to the side of the cabinet,
7) remove the control board and remove electrical connections,
8) disconnect water line connecting detergent to top of wash tub,
9) lift tub (quite heavy) and remove springs from top of frame,
10) with tub facing up, remove the 23 bolts holding the tub halves together,
11) separate tub halves, remove gasket,
12) install new gasket and button everything back up in reverse order.

followed your instructions, unscrewed old part, screwed on new timer knob. Done.

took the back panel off then removed the rubber belt. Using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning I removed the bolt holding the pulley on. Replaced the pulley tightened the bolt back up again using a screw driver to stop the pulley from turning put the belt and back panel.

took 2 screws out and took broken part off and then put on new part. About 3 minutes. would have been faster if mouse hadn't run out from under dryer and startled me. Best part was how easy to find part at part select with just number off of old piece. At GE website had to search to find it and then it was 4 times the price. Thank you for fast service.

I took off the bottom cover by removing the two screws on the bottom cover. The shock absorber was completely broken off from its bracket. I pulled the plastic pin on the top and bottom of the shock absorber and installed the new shock. The machine works perfect again spinning out all the water. With the broken shock absorber the drum will shake violently and the machine shuts down. It makes it appear to be an electric control problem.

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

I watched a tutorial online (don't believe it he only showed the easy side) you have to hold the clip on the nylon pin and drive it out on both ends of the shock. on the rite side the lower pin hits on the back side and wont come out far enough to release the shock,i had to get on the backside and cut the pin off(thankfully their was a spare pin in the kit,you also have to disconnect a hose in front of the top pin on the rite side,i don't know how you would ever get this pin out if you ever had to again as you have to drive it in backwards. I neglected to tell you this was a top loader and the fron lower panel gives you access to these shocks.

Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.

When I was examining the catch, it broke in three pieces. The lock/switch assembly had a piece that seemed to be hanging down, not looking good. I didn't know which part was at fault, so I had to bite the bullet and order both. It took a while to find the parts on your diagrams, but eventually I figured out which one had them. I'm not sure I would have had the nerve had not your video on how to install the lock/switch made it seem really straightforward and simple (nice job!). As it turned out, once the door catch was replaced (two screws) the door started behaving. So perhaps the $70+ for the lock/switch wasn't necessary, but it's probably just as well to have it in reserve. I saved your video on my computer for future reference. Thanks for saving us from what initially looked like a really bad situation.