E23CS75DSSH Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out glass, pulled up and the front of cover and pulled froward. Pushed new cover back on to studs and pushed down on cover to lock it to front studs. Put glass on top of new cover. About 3 min total to make repair.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

I removed the filter bypass from the box. I opened the refrigerator door. I put the filter bypass in the space where the filter was located. I closed the refrigerator door. I opened the freezer door. I turned on the ice maker. It worked.

Removed the fridge door, replaced plastic Hinge Bearing, re-attached door. WhaLa - No more clicking!

Removed ice tray, disassembled ice tray assembly and crusher housing making sure to note the spring location, spring etc, installed new plastic housing making sure to reinstall the spring properly and the fixed crusher blade into the notch cutout., reassembled ice tray.

The door clunk problem was as others described. Repair similar to others described. The major thing to understand which I didn't see listed elsewhere is whether the top or bottom little nylon toothed cam is broken. This part is the one in the door. There was also one in the hinge, PS976594 or PS430814 ? I ordered this one and was lucky that it was correct. I'm not sure whether it's possible to know whether door side or hinge side is broken, without removing the door to see.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

After taking the complete motor, tray, icemaker, etc out and finding no problem, I then finally checked for power at the connector at the top of the icemaker. I concluded that there was no pwoer going to the motor. I then removed the circiut board and found the relay for the auger was not working. Putting the new board in took 10-15 min. and then the auger started to work.

Replaced the Triple Water Valve

First I obtained the manual to the refrigerator. I identified the screws to be removed. I turned off the water then unplugged the water lines. I then replaced the Water Filter Base and reassemble the parts. Within minutes of turning on the water, water and ice making had returned. I was a hero for saving the family $200 in parts and labor.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.

The part i recieved, from parts select was a larger in circumfrence (<1/4) than the original. However i was not aware of this until after i treid to repair it.

I removed the broken fan from the condenser. This was very sipmle.

When i pluged the refridgerator back in to the outlet the fan tried to start up but soon began to make aloud noise, due to there not being enough clerance.

I unscrewed the water dispenser and removed the broken piece. Take your time, it is only about 8 screw that need to come out to reach the area for the new part. The only tricky thing about the fix is a spring behind the part. Make sure its lined up, and you should be good to go. Good luck – take your time.

Not knowing the history of the refrigerator/freezer and observing that the icemaker would cycle (ice ejector fingers would rotate when the off/on arm was toggled), I concluded that the water valve must have some hard water scale in it which was causing it to stick. I replaced the water valve and the exact same behavior continued. By elimination, I concluded that the microswitch in the icemaker must be sticking. I removed the icemaker, used a hair blow-dryer to heat/dry out the microswitches and then a little shot of WD-40 on the mechanical arms, switches, and cams fixed it.

I used pliers to get the remaining shelf support studs out, then the new ones just snapped right in place. Very easy repair!