DF454677 Magic Chef Range - Instructions
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bake element burnt out
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dawn from Biscoe, AR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
It is very easy shut off the power yo the stove at the fuse box, unscrew the two screws and pull the element out replace and screw back into place.
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Bake element had deteriorated
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sandra from LAKESIDE, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.
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Heating element stopped heating
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Miguel R from MCKINNEY, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
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Oven bake element not working
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from Sterling, MA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Turned oven circuit breaker off. Removed oven racks. Removed 2 screws from old element. Pulled element out slightly disconnected wires on each end and reattached to new element. Pushed back in and reinstalled the 2 screws, reinstalled oven racks and turned circuit breaker back on. All done in about 20 minutes.
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element burnt out
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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richard from KAUKAUNA, WI
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
super easy after watching the how to video you had on it and iam the wife not the husband it was so easy thanks
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Bake element went out
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tom from Hurst, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.
Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back an ... Read more d watching new bake element heat up.
Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back an ... Read more d watching new bake element heat up.
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the lower baking element of the oven did a 4th of July sparkler show coming right out of the oven door three days before Thanksgiving
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeffrey from Steelville, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from f
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emale parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!
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replacing broken bottom baking element
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thea from Greeley, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from other
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s who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!
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Oven Temperature was 50 degrees low
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eugene from Clinton, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees
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low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.
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i had to replace my oven element as is cracked in half
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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barbara from greenville, SC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
after finding my part and thank god for you guys i recieved it early it only took 4 days to get here i unscrewed my old oven part and popped the new one in easier than making cookies and now i can bake til my hearts content thanks for being there for me
barbara krebs
barbara krebs
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Bake Element shorted out, burned out hi-limit switch
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Russell from Coppell, TX
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or ... Read more weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or ... Read more weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.
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Broken glass in oven door
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jamie from Hoover, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Disassembled the oven door, removed broken glass, replaced with new glass and reassembled oven door. Took very little time. Online diagram on this site helped to keep everything in order and easily know what part was needed. Thanks!!!!
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No temperature control
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Max from Houston, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.
... Read more
Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
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Frayed and exposed receptical wires in cartridge
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard C from San Jose, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.
* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.
* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridg ... Read more e base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.
* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.
* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.
* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.
* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.
* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.
* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridg ... Read more e base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.
* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.
* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.
* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.
* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.
* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
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