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DF454677 Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the DF454677
76 - 90 of 348

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Bake element burned out. Actually it broke in half.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Vincent from Big Arm, MT
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
When ordering the replacement part, read the posts on how to replace the bake element. Just follwed their lead. The only difficulty is getting a hold of the wire at the back of the range that the bake element plugs into. There wasen't much play in the wire.
PS Be sure and remove the range door or have very long arms.
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the control pannel shorted out (circuit board timer)
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Oldsmar, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Moved the stove, unplugged it. took the back off, took out old board installed the new one. It was just that easy and saved us from buying a new stove.
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The inside glass was broken on oven door.
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jacob from Cotton, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.
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broken element and wire
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Holly from Plainview, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Replaced it
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Burner wouldn't heat (wiring failure)
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eugene from San Antonio, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.
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ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • sherri from elk horn, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.p lugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!
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i sat a tupperware bowl on a hot burner and it stuck to the burner so i had to replace it
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • judy from palatine, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
just plugged it in!
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one electric burner does not get hot
5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dinh from austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
swap a known good coil around and still did not work. then measured voltage across the switch terminals and found out one leg was opened. Ordered a new switch which looked alike. The new switch could handle more current than the old one. Turned out that all terminals of the new switch were same size while the old one had 1 smaller size. U sed the dremer tool to file it to fit the wire terminal. Also the burner knob had different grove type . Just forced it in.
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Burner control knob/switch shaft had broken off.
4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steve from San Luis Obispo, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed front panel of range, removed switch (2 screws), unclipped wires from back of existing switch. Installed new switch - reverse order of above.
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Bake element had deteriorated
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from LAKESIDE, CA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.
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Replace the oven Sensor
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Exeter, NH
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not loo k for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike
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After cleaning, F1-1 error flashed and neither oven worked
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Georgene from Rock City, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your websit e. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!
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old bulb fused into old socket.
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Reno, NV
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it eas ily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • phillip from Farmington, NM
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
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All Instructions for the DF454677
76 - 90 of 348