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CGS3760ADA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the CGS3760ADA
46 - 60 of 327

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F3 code, oven wouldn't heat.
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Shaun from Kimball, NE
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by re moving the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Ashland, OR
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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My oven wouldn't light.
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Anna from Valparaiso, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.
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oven wouldnt light or would light inconsistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jay from Hubbard, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put o ven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!
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Oven would not heat consistently
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Leland from Orting, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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Oven wouldn't reach temp, gas smell and loud pop when gas would re-ignite,took 45 mins or more to reach 350' from starting temp of 100'
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from LOS LUNAS, NM
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go' s from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Oven did not heat up.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NICHOLAD from NANUET, NY
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.
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Stove wouldn't stay lit and would fire unless the gas was turned on the range top .
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allen from Swengel, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!
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Oven took way too long to preheat . Emitted strong gas odor.
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patrick from Las Vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
I first matched the symptom (very long preheat time/gas odor) with the most likely problem (faulty oven gas igniter). I then wrote the model # and Googled gas oven repair and got to your website. I then located the faulty part within about 5 clicks and proceeded to order the exact part within another 5 or so clicks. I received my order f rom PartSelest in 2 days and had the oven working with the new igniter in about 10 minutes....Then it dawned on me---"Hey, I should be a Maytag Repair Man."
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)
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burners corroed by sulphate in the gas
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Juan Jose from Miami, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
just turn the burners counter clock wise with the help of a jar opener pad. unplug the wire connectors and replace the burners no hassle, no problem. Everything went fine… one thing though, it is not the same color as it was before. I didn’t realize it until opening the box. Previous color was grey. My wife is Ok with it, so I won’t complain, but maybe you should add the color option if there is more than one choice.

Best regards.
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burner would not ignite
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Scott from Sacramento, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Even though the ceramic insulator looked new (white), it had become non-functional, replacement was simple, 2 phillips screws, reassemble and test. Now I will have to order the other 3.
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both burner heads would not ignite
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Warwick, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the burner heads from the wires, and simply put the wires on the new burner heads and put back onto the stove,. Simple as pie. Very happy that i found parts select online, easy to find the part though your pictures and easy to order.
Loved being able to do this myself without a middle man. Very satisfied!
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Variable oven heat and Ignitor. problems
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Floyd from Kenai, AK
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor. Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
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Oven would not maintain temperature
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is l ike new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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All Instructions for the CGS3760ADA
46 - 60 of 327