CEI30GF5GSF Electrolux Range - Instructions

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m ... Read more etal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

Replaced the probe because that's what this site recommended.The oven still does not heat up.

took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act f ... Read more ast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

First, remove the warming drawer. This allows access to the igniter's plug. Unplug the igniter. The rest of the job is performed within the oven. Remove the bottom (1/4 inch socket). Then remove the next, v shaped piece. The igniter is bolted to the aerator. Remove bolts, and it pulls right off. Reverse these to install new igniter.

I ordered the replacement igniter for the oven portion of the unit from Part select. It shipped very quickly. Upon receiving the igniter it was time to get to work. It took roughly 10 mins to replace and we were back up and running.

Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.

move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull ol ... Read more d probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps

Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.

First I removed the two screws that hold the bottom panel I then pulled the panel out and put the new panle in and put the two screws back in

I opened the door of the gas range and slid the rack in. No one can do this! I am amazing.

Oven ignitor is on the bottom gas unit. Ignitor is in oven and plug is in warmer oven on left wall at very back of warmer oven. It has duel function to light both upper and lower gas burners (in oven). Wires of new plug that I received were shorter than existing wires and would not reach the plug from ignitors center mount location to ... Read more plug at far back of warming unit on left wall. Even if the wires would have been long enough, I couldn't figure out how to "release" the existing plug. Easy solution: Cut old wires at junction of old ignitor (leaving wires as long as possible). Cut new wired as close to new male plug as possible (leaving wires as long as possible on new ignitor). Strip ends of old and new wires and wire nut with porcelin wire nuts (hardest part of job was locating porcelin wire nuts)! After placing wires out of the way of burner and ignitor, reassemble stove parts. AVOID touching new element as oil from hands will decrease the life of the element. Good Luck..

I "You Tubed" disassembly and commenced by disconnecting electric power. Removed door via You Tube instruction, removed back panels of unit, and replaced the oven temp probe. Easy Peasy. Then removed bottom of oven, next level above the burner and started to remove the igniter. One nut refused to be removed so I removed the burner a ... Read more nd cut the nut and drilled it out. I reinstalled the new igniter with a metal screw from the rear panel and reinstalled the burner. Through the tiny hatchway I reconnected the new igniter and reassembled the oven to test. Just fine heated to 350 in 7 minutes. Awesome. Then, I called my brother, Pat, to give his imprimatur to the hillbilly nut switch. He said ok, I am done.

To any reading this, I would order the igniter and the burner at the same time. That tough nut cost my one extra hour.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. O ... Read more nce there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.