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BTF1240FS0 Crosley Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the BTF1240FS0
121 - 135 of 356

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Spring broke and front loading washer made loud noise when it went into spin cycle.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DONNA from VALPARAISO, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the back and lower panel in the front of machine. Turned it on its side to replace spring, not tools required. Then stood it up and replaced both shocks by removing plastic pins that hold them in place, no tools required. The only time you need tools is to remove the metal panels to get to the parts. Now it makes no noise and runs like a new washer. Paid $140 for the parts, a new machine would have cost over a thousand and would be one of those digital nightmares that don't last as long. This machine is 18 years old.
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No top Panel
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from RAVENSDALE, WA
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
(This is reply #2 of 2)
After I finally got all of the parts (at least the rear brackets and screws) I found that the panel only had one of two holes for the two horizontal screws.
After drilling a new hole in the left rear bracket position, I discovered that the 2 screws could not be threaded into the bracket pilot holes. They t froze up at the top of the taper in the threads. I had to increase the size of the hole 1/64" to get the screws in. There also is a trick to getting the bracket through the punched out hole in the panel- you must angle the bracket corner to corner then apply about 10# of preasure to the bracket to force it through the hole.
Other than that, the panel install went pretty well. Now I have to get the front brackets and springs and screws which are on backorder...
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Tub was rocking a lot on spin
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Viola, DE
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the wash er - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.
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Wouldn't drain water...thus no spin cycle!
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sandra from Amherst, WI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Let's see...removed lower panel-used tools to unscrew the unit---one piece-nice to replace---EASY to replace! Removed hose---placed hose on new unit; screwed all back to bottom of washer-replaced lower panel...Voila! Made sure unit was balanced...did a load of whites---Awesome WASHER NOW!!!
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Washer drum would not spin
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Annie from Santa Clara, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The dru m would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!
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worn out vibration/shock absorbers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • W R from Venice, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers
"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be dis connected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.
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Water leaking and broken shock absorbers
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dan from Concord, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed spring retainer straps from top of springs. Propped up tub with blocks and a wedge. Lifted out each spring and replaced. Re-attached spring retainer straps. Removed pins from shock absorbers (old/broken ones). These break due to moving washer w/out installing original foam blocks and support screws or due to age and fatigue. Pins have a retainer that must be depressed as you pull or push them out. may need to spin back and forth with pliers as you pull them. Bottom right pin won't come out w/out a hassle. Cut it in pieces with dykes and used spare pushed in from the FRONT (not the rear, as it was originally installed). Found leak was not fixed by getting the drum back up to proper height. Found bolt on tub had broken the bottom of the soap dispenser "tray". This is a 50.00 part. Made a patch from the bottom. Roughed up plastic and used silicone adhesive. After it had adhered filled from top with more silicone. Allowed 24 hrs to dry. Washer is as good as new.
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Washing machine wouldn't go into final spin.
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Manny from Old Bridge, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cov er and two srews as well.
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Broken piece of door latch lodged in switch
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from LINCOLN, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took door lock switch out and fished out broken part. Reinstalled switch and installed new striker. Problem solved. Ordered extra striker just in case.
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Washing Machine would drain but not spin.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kelly from Henderson, NV
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.
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I bought the washer used. The person got rid of it cheap because the kobs were broken. The repair was cheap and easy to do. It was worth it.
6 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • SEENA TERENA from ROSEDALE, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
One knob just screwed right on. The others just snaped in place. That easy!
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Doesn’t close
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from GUILFORD, CT
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove screws take off striker .Put striker back on with screws back on

Tighten screws. Took 5 minutes
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Broken Door Strike
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Jessica Ramaker from SAINT PAUL, MN
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Very basic replacement- 2 screws in and out. The part did not come with screws to be sure to save them if you remove the broken part ahead of time to make the process smoother.
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washer drained withn no spin
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from Lancaster, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Remove top of washer, remove door lock assembly,install new assembly replace top.
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One shock was broken
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Larry from Alamo, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pl iers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.
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All Instructions for the BTF1240FS0
121 - 135 of 356