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BCS42ELE General Electric Refrigerator - Overview

Diagrams for BCS42ELE

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Dual Inlet Water Valve – Part Number: WR57X10051
$57.38
In Stock
Dual Inlet Water Valve
★★★★★
★★★★★
(17)
Part #WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet. NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valve. To remove - depress ring that the tube slides into.
Run Capacitor – Part Number: WR55X24064
$61.39
In Stock
Run Capacitor
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★★★★★
(7)
Part #WR55X24064
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. This part has been updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the original, but should function the same.
Plastic Tube - 1/4 Inch – Part Number: WR17X11349
$16.05
Special Order
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT – Part Number: WR60X30349
No Longer Available
EVAPORATOR FAN MOTOR KIT
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★★★★★
(9)
Part #WR60X30349
This evaporator fan motor operates in a counter clockwise fashion. This motor's shaft is 3/8 of an inch and the motor has two right side terminals. NOTE: Harness wires NO longer come with the part.
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V – Part Number: WR60X187
$252.05
In Stock
Condenser Fan Motor - 115V
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★★★★★
(6)
Part #WR60X187
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals. This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra water in the drain pan.
Refrigerator Defrost Timer – Part Number: WR9X483
$41.70
In Stock
Refrigerator Defrost Timer
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★★★★★
(1)
Part #WR9X483
This refrigerator defrost timer will cycle for thirty minutes after every ten hours of run time.
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side – Part Number: WR72X214
No Longer Available
Power Cord – Part Number: WR23X10300
$57.26
Special Order
Power Cord
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(4)
Part #WR23X10300
This heavy-duty cord has a three-pronged plug (2 electrical, 1 grounding). The power cord supplies power to your refrigerator, allowing it to keep the contents inside cool. There could be an issue with your cord if you notice that the refrigerator will not turn on, or intermittently turns on and off. Check the cord for fraying, or other visible damage. If the power cord shows any signs of damage, replace the cord immediately as it could become an electrical or fire hazard. Before you begin this repair, ensure that the power is disconnected from the unit, and that all food that could ruin is stored away while the power is off.
Mounting Grommet – Part Number: WR2X7238
No Longer Available
Mounting Grommet
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(1)
Part #WR2X7238
The mounting grommet is black in color, made of plastic, measures 1 inch in diameter, and is sold individually. It is collared around the edge to keep it in place. This part is used to help hold the compressor in place and prevent vibration. This part is generally found in refrigerators, washers, freezers, and dehumidifiers. This is a genuine OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer.
Relay PTCR - 2 Wire – Part Number: WR07X10011
No Longer Available
Relay PTCR - 2 Wire
Part #WR07X10011
The start relay briefly boosts the compressor, and then shuts off as soon as the motor gets up to speed.
Defrost Thermostat Kit – Part Number: WR50X45
No Longer Available
Defrost Thermostat Kit
Part #WR50X45
This defrost thermostat kit comes with the installation with wires, mounting brackets, and wire connectors. L45-20.
De-Icing Kit – Part Number: WR49X10021
$398.30
In Stock
De-Icing Kit
Part #WR49X10021
This part should be installed by an appliance repair person as it could be dangerous. This part may be used to help prevent your evaporator fan from becoming blocked with ice. This part also insulates the evaporator coil area so you don't get a buildup of ice in the damper area.

Common Symptoms of the BCS42ELE

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Cracked housing on the vaave
288 of 308 people found this instruction helpful.
  • anthony from thornton, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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Panel hot to touch between freezer & refrigerator. Motor hot, fan not rotating.
32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kimberly from Grandy, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.
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during defrost cycle water dripped into freezer and froze all over ice bin
27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bob from Aurora, IL
  • Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the ice maker. Second I removed the back panel and overhead panel above ice maker. Third I pulled down the drip trough it had a styrofoam base under it. The trough heater had to be unplugged to remove the trough as well as the drain hose. Forth I seperated the styrofoam from the trough and peeled off the old heater whi ch had burn marks on the foil. Fifth I applied the new heater plugged it in and attached the drain hose to the trough. Last I reassembled the unit. Refridgerator works great now and it only cost $45.00 for the heater. The GE repair service quoted over $950.00 and did not list the trough heater as the problem so I would be spending more and would have required several repair visits.
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