ART6114 Amana Range - Instructions

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Act ... Read more ually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

Pulled stove out, unplugged it and took 4 screws out to get access to control board. Marked and removed all electrical wires and took 4 more screws out and took of oven knob.Replaced the control board and put everything back together.

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the ... Read more screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

The front burner the large one was burnt out, I cook alot so I need it, I happen to see a appliance repair man next door. I describe problem and he said well figure about 250 - 300 hundred dollars. 80 For the aprt the rest labor and house call. Well I looked at the booklet and figured out what I had to do ,needless to say I owent to you ... Read more r website and you had the exact part I needed and saved me alot of money. I sugest to d. I. Yers try it and if it doesn't work then call the repairman. Thank you parts select. Glenn voight

I unscrewed the 3 screws that held the element in place. My husband disconnected the back wired part of element .Then he reconnected new element wires and I rescrewed 3 screws in of new element. Very simple. I just wasn't sure about the back wired part, but like I said my husband seemed to know what he was doing so I let him do that part ... Read more !

Very easy fix. This is done through the oven door. Don't pull it out or do anything exotic. Turn the breaker off. Don't skip this Since you're dealing with 220v here. Shine a bright light into the back of the oven to identify the element attachment screws. Use a number 2 Phillips to remove the 2 screws holding the element in place. Pull ... Read more the element straight out. This may require a bit of manipulation wiggling back an forth. Don't yank to hard. There was probably 6" of free wire. Next free the wires attached via spade terminals from the old element. Putt the new element in place and reattach the wires. Carefully push wires back thru the holes and secure with the screws. Reset the breaker and turn it on. Totally simple. My oven was 18 years old and the screws came right out. I expected difficulty but none encountered.

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

Shut off power to the oven.
Unscrewed the old broiler element, unplugged it.
plugged in new one, screwed it in.
Turned on the power. Voila!

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest ... Read more that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.

The repair went real easy. Turned off power, unscrewed two screws at back of oven and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected two wires to new broiler element and remounted the new one with the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and had a steak cooking in no time.

Removed screws holding rear cover, removed cover. Male connector on Broil Element had rusted off and caused wire to fall onto the frame of the range, shorting it out.

Removed element by disconnecting other wire and removing the single Phillips head screw accessible from inside the oven. Released the element from the two hook ... Read more s towards the front of the oven near the door and removed.

The wire to the element that burned off had a high temperature female push on connector that I did not have on hand. I had a high temp ring connector so I drilled one of the male connectors on the new element so I could use a small stainless screw and nut which I had to hold the ring terminal on.

After crimping the new connector on I fastened it to the element, connected the other wire and put the rear cover back.

Good to go now!

Turned power off! Removed two mounting screws, disconected two slip on wire terminals from heating element. Removed Element from oven. Took about 10 minutes.
Part came in two days. Re installed heating elemet by pushing on the two slip on wire terminals and re installing the two mountint screws. Took about 10 more minutes.
We h ... Read more ave been retired for 17 years. Wish all my "Honeydew jobs were this easy!

First I removed the two screw on the lower inside of the door that hold the door to the hinges. Then I opened the oven door at about a 15 degree angle, and carefully lifted the door out of the hinge brackets. Next I had to remove the side panels on the door . After getting those side pieces off, I realized that I had to go through all ... Read more layers of the door to get to the inner glass, so I decided that the best way to keep track of all those screws, was to remove each screw with the Phillips head screw driver, and immediately scotch tape that screw right next to the hole it came from. That was the best idea I had, because there are many screws in that door! Removing the old glass, and replacing it with the new glass was the easiest part of the project, just be sure not to let pieces of the insulation get between the glass and the metal frame. Then I reversed my steps to put everything back together. It probably took a bit longer than someone else because I first taped each screw on the panels, and then had to remove the tape, but I just did not want to find a handful of screws after the door was back on, or worse, somehow lose one or two. I think the hardest part of this project was getting the door back on the hinges, because the door is heavy, and you have to line up the hinges with holes in door, and slide the door in evenly. Once the door is back on, re-insert the two screws, and your oven door is as good as new (and as clean as new).

had to slide the range out from the wall and pull the electrical plug, then using a nut driver ,I removed 9 screws from the back panel and removed the back panel to expose the bake element wiring, had to remove the three wires connecting the power cord to the range terminals a/c the back panel would not fully come off with these wires con ... Read more nected. i then pulled the 2 stake eyes from the element, unscrewed the 2 screws
securing the bake element from inside the stove and removed the element, re-installed the new element and screwed into place, attached the
stake eyes on the rear of the element and re-attached the power cord, put the back cover back on and plugged the range in., tested and the range functioned as intended.