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ARR31 Amana Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the ARR31
16 - 30 of 208

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Baking Element Went
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janet from Richboro, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
The hardest part was the two screws (they were baked on I guess). We turned off the breaker, put paper towels in the oven carefully sprayed wd40 on the screw. Waited about 5 minutes unscrewed the two screws, gently pulled out the plate. When you pull the two wires out there are two contacts. Look at the direction their on. Slide them off put in the new unit to the contacts, gently slide back in and put the two screws back. It was really that easy and I had no idea what I was doing. No need to pull oven out can all be done for the front side.
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electric coils would not stay flat as drip pans were incorrect fit
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janet from Philadelphia, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replaced drip pans with correct type
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Bottom oven element did not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Allison from Cumming, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
My bottom oven didn't work, and I had called a service to come out and fix it. It was a $60 charge just to come out. My friend owns an apartment complex, and she told me it was two screws and a pull to remove the element and replace. I took the element out, ordered it for $38, had it the next day and repaired my oven in a matter of mi nutes. It was so easy and inexepensive. I feel like I can do anything!
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Electric burner on stove would not work
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Fresno, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were loca ted under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.
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Small burner full hot all the time.
16 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from PARADISE, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Re assembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.
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Store-bought drip bowls wouldn't fit.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from Yacolt, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!
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Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break
6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dana from Black Mountain, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.
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bake element broken
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • dale from Simi Valley, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com
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Electric stove burners working intermitantly.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from St. Louis, MO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).
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replaced indicator lights and bowls
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Wellford, SC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
To replace a bowl lift burner slightly (1") then pull gently until it comes out. Remove bowl, replace with new bowl. Insert burner by pushing gently yet firmly, place down into clip.

To replace indicator light, remove panel from back of stove.
Locate light indicator switch, push indicator lens through front of stove, hold in place (may require a second person) slide switch unto the nub of plastic on the indicator switch. Repeat for each broken indicator lens.
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Son accidentally melted alot of plastic in oven.
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Virginia from Holts Summit, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

* * * *
I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)
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Broil element broke
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randall from Cartersville, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Top (broil) element broke in two on oven. Ordered part,it was there in three days. Quick fix, removed screw holding element to oven wall, unplugged wires, then just swaped out elements. Re-attached wires just as they were on old element and screwed back into same place and oven is working again.
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The drip bowls were all caked and corroded.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Mountain City, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)

I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.
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Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Puyallup, WA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink slee ves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
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Oven would not stop heating even with Bake turned off!
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Apple Valley, MN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Act ually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!
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All Instructions for the ARR31
16 - 30 of 208