ALW210RAW-PALW210RAW Amana Washer - Instructions

Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber ... Read more section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.

Unplugged the washing machine and turned off the water to the machine. Removed the two front covers; unhooked the two front springs; removed the (4) motor mounting bolts; unhooked the two hoses for the water pump; unhooked the wiring harness; removed the belt from the driven pulley; pulled the motor assembly out; removed the (3) screws t ... Read more o separate the water pump from the motor; removed the belt from the motor pulley; installed new belt and repeated above in reverse to put everything back together; started washing machine and it worked great.

firsted layed washer back On A Angle For Easy Acess To Motor Removed Both Hoses And Four bolts pulled Motor Assembly out replced belt @ idler Pulley Reinstalled Motor.

This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t ... Read more his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.

to replace the seals is the easier part of the job. I Removed the front panels and removed the front screws for the top and opened up. Then you have to remove the agitator, then the bell plug, the bolt holding the bell along with the bell, then the 1-1/2" nut under that. then slide the plastic washer that fits into the splne. to remove th ... Read more e drum you have to remove the plastic top to the drum assembly. Then you can remove the drum along with the along with the alumunum splined hud that is atrtached the the metal drum. Before removing the drum the seal under the plastic washer mentioned above needs to be removed. once the drum is out you can in bolt the aluminum splined hub from the metal drum. The outer plastic drum has a seal that is glued and slides over the vertical flange. The glue is not included in the kit. once the botom seal is installed. install the new aluminum splined hub to the metal drum. install lower seal to botom of the splined hub. reinstall the hub. once the large nut and plastic spined washer is installed. The top seal neds to tapped onto the hub agian with an object that matches the dia. of the seal flange. the n install the bell, nut ans plug. The bell does not like to align to the splined shaft, do not force it. reinstall the agitor an assemble the rest.

I first unplugged the washer. I removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel, they are located at the very bottom outer edges of the front panel.
I then removed 4 of the large springs that are attached to the drum, this washer has six but I only removed the front 4. Removed the two hoses going to the wat ... Read more er pump and drain hose, removed 4 bolts that attach the motor to its mounting bracket. Unplugged the wiring harnesses going to motor and what looks like a capacitor mounted to the side of the motor.Then I removed the drive belt. ( when the machine would first start to spin it would make a clacking noise which ended up being a chunk out the the drive belt causing the belt tenshioner to slap causing that noise and letting the drum spin during the wash cycle. So far very easy. I then removed the motor and when it is disconnected you can then remove the water pump. Three hex head bolts need to be removed and it pulls right off. I then removed the six bolts that hold the brake pads in place. I applied silicone grease to the new brake pads and installed them. The pad at the back of the drum was very hard to line up with the holes. I used a very small screwdriver to line up the disc brake mounting holes to get the bolts started and it worked fine. I then put it all back together and it works great. I have to add that I have been an auto mechanic for 28 years and not to brag but this is not your average repair job.

Unplugged washer then took back off control panel. Removed clamp and tube from pressure switch. Pushed in tabs with a screwdriver and lifted top. Removed clamp and broken tube. Put new tube in place and tighten clamp with nutdriver. Closed top and put other end of tube on pressure switch with clamp. Put back on control panel and plugged i ... Read more n. Clamps are to big for application but do work. So far so good!

Remove the electrical power plug and disconnect the water hoses at the back. Remove the lower front panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom edge. Then lift out the upper front panel which exposes the two sheet metal screws holding down the top panel. Lift open the top panel and secure it up about 90 degrees so it doesn't flop ove ... Read more r backwards. Twine tied to something overhead works fine. Replacement procedure for the valve is obvious, once exposed.

As the other posting said, it appears our problem was due to constant overloading, as an inspection of the machine with the bottom service panel removed clearly revealed all three milkstool legs broken away from the round center piece. My teen-agers are now aware that I am somewhat displeased about this.
My first action was to order ... Read more the repair manual. In retrospect, it was only marginally useful as a job aid, but was essential in verifying ID of the part and understanding details of how the machine works. I started by following the manual which said to remove the agitator. The agitiator didn't want to be removed, even after repeated attempts and applications of varying amounts of both physical and vocal persuasion. So, I reconsidered what I really needed to be doing, and dislodging the agitator (and subsequently all of the spline seals) really wasn't necessary. I just needed to get to and replace the crushed milkstool (and leave everything with a seal alone!).
So, Phase 1 - I removed the front panels, and tilted up the top. I then disconnected the power cable to the motor and the inlet/outlet hoses to the pump (more on my haste in this step in a moment...). The wiring harness is held in place on the machine back and milkstool by plastic retainers that release when compressed. I then disconnected the green ground wire, the panel that holds the blue water inlet valve assembly, the black hose on top of the tub and the clear air pressure hose (just pulls straight out of the tub side connector). This allowed the top to be removed and set aside. I then pulled the drain hose through and pulled the plate that holds it in place from the back, then removed all the screws that hold the cabinet to the base, then set the cabinet aside. Next, I disconnected all 7 springs from the base to the tub, and the tub was free. I pulled the tub from the base (not too heavy) and inverted it to get at the motor/pump/milkstool.
Phase 2 - gently removed the idler spring and removed the belt from the pulley. Pulled 10 1/2" self-tapping screws that hold the milkstool to the tub and the motor to the milkstool (these can be discarded as you get new ones with the milkstool). Now pulled 6 screws that hold the brake pads in place, and pulled the brakepads. The manual says to replace the pads whenever pulled, but these didn't look terribly worn, and work just fine after reassembly. The pulley then came off easily, and then subsequently so did the milkstool (with integrated bearing). Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly, and all seemed logical enough until I got to reattaching the hoses to the pump. The manual does not make it clear which one goes where, and I forgot to take a picture of that part of the machine before dismantling. Long story short, I put them on backwards, and you'll probably not be surprised to hear the machine didn't work as anticipated when we turned it on! (wouldn't spin, wouldn't pump out the water and made a nice puddle in the laundry room). Once we ladled out all of the water from the tub and reversed the hoses, everything worked fine. So - words to the wise (1) mark hoses, wires, etc with tape, grease pencil, whatever works for you BEFORE disassembly and (2) take close-up digital pics as you progress.

I removed the front cover to gain access to the motor. I saw that the belt was starting to get chewed up so I removed it. While looking at the schematic on Parts.com I noticed the Idler Pulley Wheel was much larger then one currently on the machine. I ordered that also in case I needed it. I needed it. Once I replaced the belt and th ... Read more e pulley the machine ran better then ever. Originally I thought I just needed the belt but thanks to Parts.com I realized I needed a little more. Thanks.

I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.
... Read more r />To replace the Idler Pulley Wheel:
1. Take off the lower and upper front panels to access the motor assembly.
2. Remove motor by loosening four bolts.
3. Remove spring that applies tension to the idler pulley.
4. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab on top.
5. Remove hoses by gripping clamps with pliers (put down rags first to catch water)
6. Unhook belt from tub pulley
7. Remove 1 cabinet spring to make it easier to remove motor
8. Remove motor.
9. Remove allen screws holding the pump to the motor
10. Remove the pump and belt (take note of the location of the belt before removing).
11. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel (this was probably the trickiest part; I used a very tiny needle nose pliers and straight screwdriver).
12. Replace the washers on either side of the Idler Pulley Wheel as well as the retaining ring.
13. Replace belt.
14. Reassemble in reverse order.
15. Be thankful for the money you saved on a service call.

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