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AKT36 Amana - Instructions

All Instructions for the AKT36
16 - 30 of 110

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Inner burner of dual burner element burned out
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Red Wing, MN
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled stove out and unplugged it (energized wire at burner even with burner turned off) Removed screws to lift cook top Removed burner support brace Removed three screws to remove burner Removed connections from old burner, installed on new burner Replaced screws in burner to brace Replaced burner brace Lowered cook top and instal led screws Plugged in stove and pushed it into space
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Back heating element stopped working
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Peachtree City, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.
... Read more >Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.
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Element Burned out
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Buford from Sun City Center, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
looked for how to video on you tube. It saved me lots of money. Anyone could do it.
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Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top
11 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the origina l unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect
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Burnt out burner
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Clermont, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Had this range for 6 years. My daughter turned on the burner and it went "pop". She was very upset. I found the best price at PartSelect, and ordered the same day.

the first burner arrived broken in the box. We contacted PartSelect, and they immediately sent another and rushed shipping. It arrived in excellent condition. ... Read more />
To replace the unit: First, I turned off the circuit breaker for the range. Then I removed the two Philips screws that held the cooktop down. Next I removed the nut screws holding the burner to the cooktop.

Then I placed the new burner next to the old one, and one by one swapped the wires (this way I was sure I had the right wire on the right connector). One of the wire connectors broke when removing it from the old burner. PartSelect had provided 4 repacement connector pieces (oddly, all of which were too small for the burner element). So I located a replacement connector at a local hardware store. Stripped the end of the wire and used pliers to fasten the new connector.

After all connectors were secured to the new burner, I screwed the burner to the cooktop, then closed the cooktop and secured it with the two screws.

Turned on the circuit breaker, and it works like new! Saved over $100 by doing it myself!
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I turned off the range breaker and doubled checked to make sure the power was off . Using 1/4" ratchet wrench I removed 2 sheet metal screws and lifted the glass top up and held it in up with a small cardboard bow. I removed 2 more screws holding the element in place and installed new unit. I then
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Howard from Citrus Springs, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Wrench set
See description listed as problem
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the left front burner burned out & none of the lights to show if a burner was hot would come on.
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Fair oaks Ranch, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the count er.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.
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Dual Infinite Switch shorted out due to boil over on the cooktop.
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ronald from Beavercreek, OH
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I turned off the circuit breaker to the cooktop. I had to remove aluminum tape from the downdraft fan so it would disconnect from the exhaust duct. I noticed that I had a long enough electrical connection so I could just lift the cooktop up out of the opening and support it at the corners with shims. I removed all the knobs from the coo ktop and then removed the 1/4" sheet metal screws that held the ceramic top to the base. My cooktop had a downdraft fan in the center which has 2 phillips head screws that at first I didn't see, but once I removed those, the ceramic top came off and exposed all the inner workings. I removed the 2 phillips screws holding the switch and then swapped each wire from the old switch to the new one. After that, it was just a matter of reversing the process to get everything back in working order.
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The high ekement on a dual burner range top burned out
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Grace from Inverness, FL
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Turned off circuit breaker and unplugged. Opened oven door and removed 3 screws holding the range top to the range. Lifted top and proped open with a wooden block. Removed all 5 wires to the element and drew a diagram of where they came from noting the color code. Removed two screws holding the bar that supported the element
and d ropped slightly while removing the two standoff screws holding the element in place.
slide the element out. The problem was that the element received from partselect.com did not physically match the terminals on the original. this required me drill out a brad on the terminal block cover to see how the terminal block was wired. I discovered that the different color wires on the old element went to physically different terminals on the new one. This was even though I had returned the first element received, got a new part no from matag and reordered.
there are tiny markings on the terminal block that helped show the way. Be sure to find them and rewire according to these markings. 1a 2a 1b 2b as the terminal locations may be different.
I am happy with the partselect,com and their attention to trying to get me the exact replacement.
Also happy with their return policy.
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burner/s could only be on off or high, nothing in between
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from West Hartford, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First, disconnected downdraft fan from ductwork below stovetop. Pushing from below, was able to lift entire stovetop assembly up to expose nuts holding glass top to the underlying burner assembly. used 2 lengths of 2x4's under the whole stovetop assembly to hold it up while I worked. Unscrewed all hex nuts and 2 screws at top of downdr aft opening and easily lifted glass top off, exposing elements below. Removed a few screws holding defective switch in place. I then moved one wire at a time from the old switch to the new switch. I actually followed directions of another partsect customer. His step by step directions for the wiring was invaluable. Worked perfectly. My wife and daughter are very impressed.
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Small burner full hot all the time.
16 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from PARADISE, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
TURNED OFF POWER TO STOVE Removed 5 Knobs, 2 screws that held bad switch.
Removed 4 screws and lifted panel up and forward to expose switches. Adjusted spring tension on knob stem to hold knob ( stem in new switch slightly smaller) removed wire from defective switch one at a time and fastened to new switch in sequence. Re assembled and turned power on. Defective switch had stuck contacts making it full hot.
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Indicatror Light For 6" Burner Quit Working
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • NANCY from LITTLETON, CO
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ok this is a glasstop jenn air cce3531b, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since I had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. Thanks you partselect
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The 6" heating element stop working on the stove top.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JULIUS from JACKSON, MI
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I reviewed a video on YouTube by this site. Even though the range on the video was not the same as mind, it gave me an idea on what to do. I proceeded to pull the rang out from the wall and disconnected the power plug. Next I removed two screws from the back located on the left and used a flat blade screw driver to depress two brack ets on the front to release the glass top panel. I unplugged the wiring harness and disconnected the grounding wire and took the glass panel off and laid it upside down on the kitchen table. I removed the old heating element first by unplugging the wiring and removing the brackets that held it in place. Installed the new one, plugged in all wirings, brackets, screws and replace the top back on the stove.
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Left front burner went out.
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from North Highlands, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.
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Element quit working
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daryl from Oak Creek, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once rem oved, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
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All Instructions for the AKT36
16 - 30 of 110