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AGS1 - Instructions

All Instructions for the AGS1
16 - 30 of 491

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Gas burner would not ignite
37 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Conroe, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
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worn out door seal
31 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stella from Charlotte, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
removed old clips and remaining parts of old seal...new part already had clips attached, so just snapped them into holes in oven door.
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Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.
32 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bedford, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.
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dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.
31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Livonia, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wir es connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.
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oven wouldnt maintain temperature
30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Patricia from Plainfield, IL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the oven grates and then the metal plate that covers the burner and igniter.Then I removed the two screws that hold in the igniter,be careful because the threads on the sheet metal screw strip off easily due to the heat. Then I slid out the storage drawer on the bottom of the stove.Next I removed two screws that hold on a cover in front of the gas valve where the igniter is plugged in.I unplugged the old igniter, removed it then replaced it with the new one.I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.I did have to use a nut and bolt to replace the damaged sheet metal screw.
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My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.
31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Monique from Mission Viejo, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.
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Oven would not heat- Beeped nonstop and flashed F3
29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Erin from Greenwich, CT
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voi la!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!
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Oven & Broiler Failed to Ignite
25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Baltimore, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
First I removed the oven door for easier access then, removed the oven grates and bottom pan. Then there is a wing nut that holds the heat deflector in place over the manifold thats needs to be removed. Now you can see the igniter, remove the 2 small hex head screws and disconnect electrical connection.
Simply reverse the sequence to reinstall.
This may sound like alot to do but it only took 15 minutes to complete and I'm not an appliance repair person. Anyone who is somewhat of a handyman can accomplish this job.
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Kept getting F3 errors
21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from Long Beach, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.
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Oven would not light -- gas smell
22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mark from Rockwall, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also instal led ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.
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Would not heat sometimes
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
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Oven wouldnt ignite
20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rodney from Menomonee Falls, WI
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Turned gas and electricity off first. Pulled out the bottom pan so I could access the igniter. Removed two screws holding the igniter next to the burner tube, unplugged the igniter from the back of the stove and then pulled the plug threw into the oven. Mounted new igniter and then pulled the plug threw and plugged it back in. Reinstalled bottom pan and I was done in 15 - 20 minutes. VERY EASY TO DO...
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Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • L R from Carmel, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with th e new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
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Oven would not maintain set temperature. Oven flame would take a long time to re-ignite causing oven to cool down more than 100 degrees before re-igniting.
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Millington, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.

Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.

Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.

Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.

Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.

Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.

Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.

I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.

Regards.
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oven temperature not correct
16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Wayne from Hopedale, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven . Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.
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All Instructions for the AGS1
16 - 30 of 491