AGS1 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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My oven wouldn't light.
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Anna from Valparaiso, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I located the igniter element, and remove the two screws that hold it in place. I then went around to the back of the oven and located the wire, and disconnected it. Then I pulled it out through the oven and removed it. I then replaced it with the new element; pushed the wires through to back of the stove and plugged it in. With that
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done, I screwed the new igniter element into place. I then put my oven back together; pushed it back into place and turned the gas back on. And presto! my oven lights like new again. I saved myself the costly repairman visit, and the job was easy.
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Oven would not heat consistently
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leland from Orting, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I needed to remove the rear panel to replace the sensor, but unfortunately, that was not the problem. It could have been; but also, it could have been the electronic control, or the gas control valve. This was the cheapest "trial" fix. I did talk to a "Warranty Repair Man", who said that IF it was the electronic control, because of
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the age of the oven, (13 years) the part would not be available and would need to be fabricated by the manufacture. Even then the cost would approach the cost of a new oven. So, we abandonded the idea of repairs to this one. I guess 13 years is a bit to much to expect of a machine this day and time. Things are made to use-up and throw away. Such is life ! !
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oven wouldnt light or would light inconsistently
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jay from Hubbard, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
igniter would heat but oven wouldnt come on or would intermittently.opened door a little and lifted it off removed racks and bottom shield removed wingnut and burner shield,removed 2 screws holding igniter ,took off lower shield to allow access to plug,unplugged old one plugged in new one replaced shield and 2 screws holding igniter,put o
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ven back together in reverse order,works like new :) ps if unit not unplugged from wall be careful igniter is hot with electricity and will bite you OUCH!
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not drying all the way, not getting hot enough
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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robert from cedar lake, AL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
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Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rob from Henderson, NV
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no o
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hm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
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Oven did not heat up.
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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NICHOLAD from NANUET, NY
- Very Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.
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Oven wouldn't reach temp, gas smell and loud pop when gas would re-ignite,took 45 mins or more to reach 350' from starting temp of 100'
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randall from LOS LUNAS, NM
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go'
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s from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Faulty bulb receptacle
10 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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Stove wouldn't stay lit and would fire unless the gas was turned on the range top .
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Allen from Swengel, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Removed the drawer and the flash plate underneath .
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in ... Read more their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!
Unplugged the igniter then opened the & removed the over door . Lifted the bottom plate to expose the burner and igniter . Undo the 2 screws holding the igniter in place . Replace the igniter and reach underneath and plug the wire connecters together . Place all the proper things in ... Read more their place .. and it was finished ...
The biggest snag I ran into was the one of the 2 screws stripped out when when taken things apart .. but I have taps and found a few new screws and replaced them ......
Quite easy fix .. don't a pay repair man to do it .... !!
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Bad Door Gasket.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donald from Schuylkill Haven, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
First I took the new gasket out of the plastic bag to make sure it was the right size. Then I proceded to take the old gasket out by pulling it with a long noise pliers. Then I took the new gasket and went around the door putting the pins in the holes that, the old gasket was in. That,s about it.
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Oven took way too long to preheat . Emitted strong gas odor.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patrick from Las Vegas, NV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
I first matched the symptom (very long preheat time/gas odor) with the most likely problem (faulty oven gas igniter). I then wrote the model # and Googled gas oven repair and got to your website. I then located the faulty part within about 5 clicks and proceeded to order the exact part within another 5 or so clicks. I received my order f
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rom PartSelest in 2 days and had the oven working with the new igniter in about 10 minutes....Then it dawned on me---"Hey, I should be a Maytag Repair Man."
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)
Thanks for the prompt delivery and the correct installation instructions. I will absolutely use your service again. (Not too soon, I hope !)
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Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joseph from Chicago, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (a
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nd the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
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Stove seal fell apart
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Teresa from Washougal, WA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed old seal parts and had to cut new part to put into space but it went in without difficulty and has sealed the stove door tight again.
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Variable oven heat and Ignitor. problems
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Floyd from Kenai, AK
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
moved stove away from the wall, Disconnected power, Removed 2 screws on the access panel and removed panel. Disconnected qwick release conections on heat sensor and ignitor, Removed oven door and burner cover to expose ignitor, removed 2 screws to remove ignitor and replaced ignitor. Removed 2 screws and removed sensor, replaced sensor.
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Reconnected qwick conects on sensor and ignitor. Replaced oven door, burner cover and access panel and checked out. Checks OK !
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