AGR4 Amana Range - Instructions

Removed the panels, disconnected and dismounted the igniter and installed the new one. Pretty simple.

Take a few screws off the back of the slide in burner module. Take off the back. Unscrew the ignitor screw, remove ignitor carefully, replace with the new ignitor, put the screw back in, put the back back on, try it out! Ours worked after a couple of tries - don't know if the ignitor had to "rev up" by several sparks or we just didn't ... Read more have it properly installed at first. Anyway, very easy. Did it in my pajamas on a Saturday morning.

Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

This repair is very easy. If you ever have to remove the range for any reason, for deep cleaning or otherwise, "PLEASE REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE 4 SCREWS located on the bottom of each burner! Don't do what I did! I tried to pop the range without removing the screws, & broke ALL ORIFICE TUBES! When doing this repair, shut the main gas off in ... Read more the back of the oven. All you need to do is remove the 4 screws as I indicated earlier, using a Phillips screw driver, once this is done, twist off all 4 burners ("YES THEY TWIST OFF!")These twist off about 1/2 turn counter-clockwise, this will expose the electronic ignition wires connected to the ignitor electrodes, these wires are color coordinated, so remember to either write down how these wires came off, or if you are like me, just remember where they came off from, remove these "VERY CAREFULLY" as these are very delicate to remove, especially, if the ignitor electrodes are brittle or old, if they are in too bad a shape, REPLACE THEM! Once you have removed all wires connecting to the ignitor electrodes, set down the 4 burners, & the range is ready to be removed, using a flat, regular, screw driver or a small tire iron, insert the flat end into the bottom of the range, just above, where the top of the oven door is & the bottom of the range meets, the top of the oven door, the gap in-between is the spot, you want to pry, The range is held down with retainer clips, then, lift the range about half way up & remove the range. Taking a look inside, you will see the Orifice tubes & how they connect to the burner valves. Remove the two lines going to the burner valves with the use of a 1/2 wrench, or if you don't have one, a crescent wrench will do, once this is done, there is a wire restraint @ the top of the orifice assembly, please do not cut it, but turn the assembly upside down, & with your index finger & thumb, squeeze the restraint & it should pop off, then remove & replace the orifice tubes, when you are tightening the lines, only use hand-tight torque, do not over-tighten, as this will break the orifice tubes! The rest is putting the range on the oven, put the range back on the oven, reversing the procedure on taking it apart. When you put the range back on the retainer clips, you need to push down on the edge of where the clips latch in. This took me about 10-15 minutes to do. Good Luck!

I realized where the ignitor was and I turned off the circuit breaker took the v plate off with a little tie nut unscrewed the 2 small nuts and small plate to hold wires in and pulled the pig tail wire out and unplugged it and then took new one and installed it in reverse order done in 7 minutes thanks michael

The bottom burner would not stay lit. I determined that it was as a result of the ignitor's voltage droping. The thing still glowed red but apparently the voltage drops and closes the gas valve. So, I switched the broiler one with the bottom one to see if it would work. It did. Then I bought the new ignitor and put it in where I had t ... Read more aken the broiler ignitor out. You have to take care to put the insulation back and shove the connector well into the hole so that there is no possibllity of it melting. I also replaced the oven top. I had bought that part a couple of years ago because I had dropped some things on it and it was chipped. When I got the top I thought it would be somewhat intuitive as to how to replace it. But, it wasn't. So,it stayed in its box. When I had the other problem I decided to tackle the top too. First turn off the gas and unplug the oven. You have to pry the top off with a screw driver. Then, you disconnect wires which run to the ignitor for each burner. You also have to disconnect the gas lines running to each dial. Now, you take the top off. To get the burners off the top you have to take a pair of channel locks and open them wide, wrap a rag around the burner and turn them like screws. Under the top there is an assembly that holds the gas lines in place. that has to be removed from under each buner. These assemblies are not interchangeable!!! One is left and the other is right. You then reverse everything. Put the burners in by screwing them down. Its hard but if you put a rag over them you can strike them with a rubber mallet. Screw the gas line assemblies into the bottom of the top. Then hook up the wires and then the gas lines. Then, you pop the top back in. There are those pressure clamps that hold the top down. I made a mistake with the gas line assemblies and switched them. So, when I tested the repair I realized I had the front dial controlling the rear burners and vice versa. Some day I take it all apart and fix it again!

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan t ... Read more o complete repair.

I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as g ... Read more ood as new.

Amazing after two years off frustration due to unsurety of problem went to your site found part problem in question that matched my problem.two screws and a plug now im burning like im supposed to.success

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) pushed wires back in and secured sensor

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine.
Very Easy!

Removed bottom and side trim, slid the bottom trim onto the glass, and reinstalled the glass on the door. I think there were less than 8 screws total.

I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.