AFI2539 Refrigerator - Instructions

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

lift glass, slide new rail in replace glass. 2 min repair.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed the crisper drawers (pull out, then up & out), remove the glass shelf above the "pantry", remove the pantry door (easy because hinge stud was broken), then remove the pantry drawer. Use 1/4" nut driver to remove the broken LH End Cap...it pulls up and out. With the phillips screwdriver, remove/replace the steel rail for the drawer ... Read more action to the new part. Replace in reverse order (after your neat freak SO cleans everything!).

using a stubby phillips screw driver removed the screw on the back side of the light assembly. Once the cover was removed there are two clips on the left side that you need to release and allow the light to pivot down. once removed press the clip on the wiring harness to separate the quick connect harness. Reinstall the new light, first i ... Read more nsert on the right side then bring up the left side to snap back in to the clips you may need to push back on the clips so it snaps in easier. then install cover plate

It was just a simple swap out with the new bins.

It is simple, unscrew the old screw in the new one.

Lower the filter bottom housing to gain access to the filter. Unscrew the filter and install the bypass cap. Secure the lower filter housing to the top assembly.

The first step was to turn off the breaker supplying power to the refrigerator. This was easier than trying to move the refrigerator to unplug.
The second step required moving one Philips head screw so the light fixture cover could be removed.
The third step required removing the existing LED Light Module.
The fourth step r ... Read more equired installing the new replacement LED Light Module.
Lastly everything was put back in place and the circuit breaker turned on.
The lighting in the refrigerator is now back to normal.
Note: I did find a good video on You Tube that showed all the steps listed above.
This is definitely a DIY project.
BR
Marvin

Broken lid popped out, new lid popped in. No tools required. 30 seconds to replace. Great price, part shipped within an hour of placing my order and arrived the next day, although I only paid for standard shipping. Excellent service - will definitely order again if the opportunity arises!

Removed the top door hinge cover.
Remover the four 12mm hex screws.
Lifted empty door off bottem hinge support.
Removed old door closure.
Put some silicon lub on the new closure and installed.
Reversed the removal steps.

But this did not fix the problem. Will have to remove the door and inspect the insi ... Read more de of the door's lower hinge assembly.

Easy repair. Unwrapped the new cover; pulled the old one off by releasing tabs. Inserted new piece.
Took less than 15 minutes. Looks like new. The replacement part arrived quickly from Part Select.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed pa ... Read more nel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Unplug the fridge then wheel the refrigerator out to where you can get to the back - you will probably have to disconnect the ice maker water hose. Using the nut driver remove all the screws from the lower panel on the fridge. You will not have to remove the water hose connection just move the panel around a little. Look on the left side ... Read more (facing the back of the fridge) you will see the capacitor held onto the compressor with a spring clip. Just pull the clip toward you and that will free the capacitor. Pull up on the capacitor and that will unplug it from the compressor. Be careful not to touch the two poles on the old capacitor. Capacitors store electricity and it could give you a jolt. I used electrical tape to insulate the poles and then threw it away. Plug in the new capacitor- re-hook the clip, reinstall the back panel, plug it in and verify that the fridge is working. Hook your water hose back up and move it back into place and you are done.

followed the instructions provided and that's it!