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AES1 - Instructions

All Instructions for the AES1
16 - 30 of 468

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Gas burner would not ignite
37 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jack from Conroe, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
(I knew the gas coils were bad, since the gas ignitor would glow brightly as the burner attempted to ignite. So I knew everything except the gas valve was operating normally.)

Unplug the electrical cord to the dryer. Remove the front access panel. Remove the retainer clip for the gas coils (2 screws). Remove the coils and unpl ug the electrical connections. Connect the new coils to their respective electricl connections. Slide the nes coils back onto their respective posts on the gas valve. Replace the retainer clip, and 2 screws to hold it in place. (I then plugged the dryer back into the wall outlet to visually check the burner operation) Everything worked fine so I then replaced the front panel.
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Repeated oven temperature sensor fault codes.
35 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Arlington, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the righ t side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.
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Dryer would start and heat, but after 1st cycle the burner would not fire and a buzzing sound was coming from the gas valve solenoid area. Igniter and other functions worked fine.
32 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Bedford, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.
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dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.
31 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ryan from Livonia, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wir es connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.
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My dryer only heats up at the beginning of cycle so my clothes will not dry.
31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Monique from Mission Viejo, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.
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needed new element. Old one burnt in two
27 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Elaine from Orfordville, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
unscrewed and unplugged the old one and plugged in and screwed in the new one. EASY!
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could not control burner temp.
24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Chesapeake, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
removed back cover
removed wires
removed two screws and removed switch
replaced switch and two screws
replaced wires and back cover
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Oven wouldn't heat the right temperature (you would have to add 100 degrees on to it)
26 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Claudine from Bethlehem, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.
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Built in oven would shut down: fault code F-4
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Juliustown, NJ
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
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Would not heat sometimes
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
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Oven failed to maintain the set temperature.
18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Clarksville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Socket set
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the bac kside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
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Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly
20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • L R from Carmel, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with th e new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
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Bake element failed
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Christopher from Daphne, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed 2 screws holding element to stove then gently pulled element forward to exposed lead connections and disconnected leads to element then reconnected leads to new element and gently pushed element ends back into the openings in the back of the stove and replaced screws to hold element to stove
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Chipped and discolored pans
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Susan A from Millsboro, DE
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
This purchase was for replacement parts, not for repair. Installation was a simple matter of taking out the old and installing the new, which is extremely easy to do. One item was damaged; Parts Select was absolutely fantastic to deal with regarding replacement! One word of caution regarding the product - I mistakenly ordered Whirlpoo l drip pans which have an opening in the bottom, the Maytag pans don't. Initially I thought that it was a mistake by Parts Select; which wasn't the case. The pans fit perfectly so I kept them. If I reorder, I will be certain that I order the correct pans.
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Oven door locked and was flashing code F4
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary L. from Trinity, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
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All Instructions for the AES1
16 - 30 of 468