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AES1 - Instructions

All Instructions for the AES1
61 - 75 of 468

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Broil element broke/burned out
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Woonsocket, RI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I just bought my first condo and sure enough something broke in my oven. I thought "Oh great - I'll need to buy a new one..." After some research and a friend's advice - I was assured that I only needed to replace the broiler element. After researching the issue I googled replacement parts which led me to this web-site. I was amazed h ow easy and inexpensive it was for me to replace the part. The directions were easy, simple, and spot-on! The instructions that were provided were easy to follow. I also utilized YouTube instructions as well for additional visual guidance. The shipping was super fast and the element was packaged very well. Thank you so much!
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broil element burn out
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JORGE from CANTONMENT, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Shipped on timely manner,I will order again from Part Select, installing was a 15 minute job, that what I did, 1 unplugged stove, 2) removed 4 screws, (2 on top bracket and 2 on back) , 3) slide unit out couple inches enough to disconnected the wires from each end of unit and removed old part, installed new unit by reconnecting end wir es, pushing unit slowly toward back of oven until wires find it's right position, set it back in place with the 2 screws on top bracket and 2 screws on back, done!!
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Replacement of bad switch
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Roanoke, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a s ingle or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
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needed new drip pans
7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janice from Kerrville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
New ones fit perfectly, and looks beautiful!
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Oven sensor caused cooling fan to run continuously. Had to flip breaker to get it to turn off..
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aubrey from EADS, TN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.
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Faulty bulb receptacle
10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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not drying all the way, not getting hot enough
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • robert from cedar lake, AL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
loosened two screws on back of top,lifted top away from front panel.it just lifts off front corners,removed two screws at top corners.lift front panel up and out,this panel supports dryer tub,remove slowly,unplug door switch parts are located left side bottom two screws holding in had to have wife hold drum up to put front panel on
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Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rob from Henderson, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no o hm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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Dryer would not heat up properly. It would heat initially but once the heat was off it would not come on again.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Chicago, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
I followed the advice posted by other customers. I took the front off the dryer, put the door back in place and ran a cycle. I could see that the igniter was heating properly, but no gas was flowing. Based on what I read I concluded that it was a problem with one of the gas valve coils. It was relatively inexpensive to replace both (a nd the dry is 10 years old), so I didn't go to the trouble of determining the bad one. I replaced them both. Obviously I unplugged the dryer (no need to turn off gas). There were 2 screws that held the bracket in place which holds the coils. I disconnected the coils, removed the bracket screws, replaced the coils, reattached the bracket screws and reconnected the coils. I then reattached the front plate to the dryer. It was very easy and took about 20 minutes and I had never worked on a dryer before.
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broiler element would not heat up.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • debbie from walden, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from r ear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.
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6" surface heating coil remained warm when "off"
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William C. from Sealy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sl eeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
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power light on, but burner not getting hot
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Weymouth, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
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Oven would not heat past 200
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Desmona from GONZALES, LA
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First be sure to unplug stove or turn off from breaker switch. I Removed racks from oven . Using screwdriver I loosened the back plate in the oven that held the wires connected to heating element , being careful not to let wires fall through holes . Gently pull element tip apart from wire. Snap end of new element to wires, screw plates b ack to tighten
Turn oven on and check to assure heating properly. Very simple
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Would not lite
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from LINDSTROM, MN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Remove igniter and replaced easy to do
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All Instructions for the AES1
61 - 75 of 468